Tuesday, 4 August 2026

Last of Wales then Somerset 31st July - 4th August

We had a happy day wandering around Hay on Wye. Astounding number of bookshops of every genre.  From wee tiny walk sideways in to shops to well displayed not sideways shops. Hay on Wye also has an annual literature festival where authors of notable note speak at; Ian McEwan, Salman Rushdie.


This is an incredible hardware store, absolutely jammed. Narrow but very deep. Selling everything from lawnmowers, drills, hotwater bottle covers, jam jars, 12 different types of brushware, scews, bolts, tableware etc. It reminded us of another go-to institution in Invercargill called E Hayes & Sons before they "tidied it up". We once bought dishrack feet there to stop the rack scratching the bench. Sad but true.

There was a small market day on 

Hay on Wye also has  Sheperds icecream parlour. Not quite Top Top but pretty good. Wearing my glasses so I can peruse all the books.

We returned to Foyles in Glasbury, our hotel, where one of the staff, who had sent us off on a walk the previous night, had dreamed up another for us called Begwyn Hill. It was on common ground again complete with wild horses and sheep foraging in the bracken.

It may look like a crop but it is acres of bracken. No rain for 7 weeks reflected in the landscape.

This is the keep at the top of the hill


These look like mule sheep we scanned in Scotland.


We left for our next housesit by a somewhat heart stopping route recomended by a Guy Cooper. We did not have to meet the owners of the property we would be looking after until 4pm so "had all day" as Guy would say.  First stop Gospel Pass. 

More expansive views of the Welsh countryside

Can only imagine how bitter the wind must be up here in the Winter.

More wild horses

The roads are so narrow. If no passing places someone has to back back until one found. We keep the wing mirrors pulled back to the car. Hedgerows are generally higher than the car, even a Dodge Ram would not see over the hawthorn.

We met one of the folks we are housesitting for and their female boxer dog called Suki. Actually in Congresbury, a village about 20 minutes from Bristol city centre. Residents commute to the city on the A370/M5. Our initial Google view showed the address to be a fish & chip shop which in fact is across the road. The house is with three others in a small cul de sac off the busy thoroughfare, 10km from Bristol Airport. The owners are away to Crete for a wedding and holiday for two weeks. We stayed at the local pub on the Friday night. The folks were leaving at 5am Saturday morning. Arrived at their house 7.30am to feed the dog and get settled in. Headed off to the supermarket to stockup in a town nearby called Weston Super Mare. Ghastly place but has a beach so Jeff walked the dog while I whizzed around Tesco. Congresbury only has limited convenience stores and of course said fish and chip shop.

The dog Suki should probably called Sookie. Bit of a timid girl, gets a fright from shadows, will stare into space like a lost soul. Very affectionate and she loves hanging out with us. Although in the mornings when we head off for a walk whereas previous dogs went ballistic beside themselves with excitement Suki just stands there getting her lead harness on like we have asked her to walk the plank! 
Went to the cliff top walk at Cheddar Valley Sunday for a 6km loop walk. We arrived early, only second car in the carpark. Hike was quite gnarly, Suki not as fit as she could be, a townie dog Jeff calls her.


The view from Jacobs Ladder. The reservoir in the distance provides water to Bristol.

When we got down to the Cheddar village it was jammed (Sunday) with a tailback of two miles and cars circling the now overflowing carpark like reef fish. We had a coffee and left.

Suki a bit tired after a real walk with the Kiwis. This is her sofa in the living area.

Today we went to Blagdon Lake for another loop walk, there by 7.30am for the two and a half hour walk. Temperature forecast of 30C and like the Labradors, Boxer dogs overheat.

Suzi quite happy trotting along with Jeff

This lake is also a reservoir for Bristol.



Honestly the English are completely obsessed with "do not" signage. Did you know that "the water could be cold, the lake bottom muddy, lake currents?, water fowl" blah,  blah, blah.

We all enjoyed the walk then carried on to a National Trust site called Tyntesfield near Wrexham.On the lookout for coffee and cake. Parking in the UK a hit and miss affair, you always have to pay even in tbe most God forsaken town. May take coins or card or have to use a parking app. Or not working at all. Jeff paid the £5 at the entrance. Tyntesfield was very good. Stables converted into a cafe, beaut walks, walled gardens etc.


Has been an estate since the 1500's but no house as landowners lived elsewhere. This gothic pile built from 1860 by an Englishman, William Gibbs, who made his fortune from guano used in fertiliser would you believe. Estate was privately owned until 2002 when the National Trust purchased it when Richard Gibbs, the then Baron of Wrexham died. They wanted it to be available to the public. Over 400,000 people visit each year. Not sure the income would cover the maintenance costs notwithstanding all the labour is from volunteers.

Magnificent copper beech tree

This is a split leaf plane tree. We had planted them down the driveway at Jefferswood.


Beautiful blue cedar glauca trees in the grounds. In addition to a kitchen garden there was an orangey - Victorian glasshouse. Funnily enough tbe volunteer gardeners had moved the potted citrus outside because they thought it was " too hot" in the glasshouse.


Jeff took this fun picture of the Kiwi shadow walkers plus willing dog.
























Thursday, 30 July 2026

Wales 23rd July - 30th


Donnington Castle


This magnificent oak will be centuries old - 300yrs - in Shelsmore Common near Newbury.

We had a great walk with the dogs on our last day caring for them. Their owners arrived back from Canada at 4pm. Relaxed and delighted that all at Crane Farm had had the Sewell care and attention. We were on the road by 6pm towards Newport. Not memorable but half way towards Tenby in Pembrokshire, Wales. 
From Newport next day we stopped in at the Cardiff Castle, walked past the revered Cardiff Rugby grounds. 
Cardiff Castle started off life as a Roman fort in AD55 and has had various iterations over the centuries.   The remodelling of Cardiff Castle was quite something. The Marquess of Bute from 1868 did a real number on various rooms such was his passion for "luxuriant fancy". The family had done well with investing in the Cardiff docks, mining and land ownership.

The clock tower with astronomical statues 3m high carved in stone and painted.

The Arab room - somewhat out of place in central Cardiff, Wales. A more Gothic tone would have been more apt.


Next stop was the National Botanic gardens of Wales. Known for having the the worlds largest single span glasshouse at 110m x 60m. The double bricked walled garden was excellent.


The gardens also had a large historic apothecary building, thought of friend Kerry, she would have found it fascinating.



We were booked at Tenby for two nights to relax by the seaside staying in the Park Hotel, which was a bit of a find. A balmy 24C on arrival. There was a track from the hotel down to the beach starting and ending at the garden bar. Had a good walk about and realising the town was jammed but fortunate that the hotel was well out of it. Really felt like we were on holiday and not having to rise 5am/6am for the horse seemed weird. Of course awake but no urgency to be vertical. Having secured a copy of the Saturday newspaper, very weighty tome, spent a happy few hours reading. 

Looking out of our hotel window

Could almost squint your eyes and imagine you are on the Italian coast not Pembrokeshire, Wales. Tenby has 13th century medieval well preserved town walls.

All the coloured Georgian houses on the High Street are quite a feature, a very tidy town.

And here he is...a dip in the sea in Wales no less.!! Jeff thought it seemed similar to Tahunanui as the beach has a shallow sandy bay which has heated up over the warmer weather the UK has been having. Daniel Craig, eat your heart out...

Left Tenby and drove north west arriving at St Davids. Britian's smallest city as designated by Queen Victoria. Really only contains a few cafes, shops and the centre piece being St Davids cathedral and Bishops Palace. A monastic community since 598AD the cathedral was built from 1181. Oliver Cromwell had a good go at pillaging/ destroying it  in 1658, including taking all the lead from the roof of the Bishops Palace. The Cathedral has been continually repaired since. Being Sunday a church service was on so did not go inside but found the outside impressive.



Further up the west coast of Wales was Aberystwyth. We remember this town from 30 odd years ago. A dreary place, the Welsh version of Brighton. In the intervening period it has not changed.



This is the pier. In an effort to beautify the council had put trees in pots at the end? Of course they succumbed to the elements.

Look closely this traveller had his small dog in his backpack. Was at the cafe we stopped at .

Drove on to Porthmadog where the Ffestiniog Blaenau train goes from.  Porthmadog was jammed with holidaymakers and a tat town. Pleased we had not booked to stay there. Continued into the mist and hills to Beddgelert to the B&B. Tiny village on the river Glaslyn. Impossible to park at the accommodation. So many people in the area being Snowdonia National Park. Gangs of walkers/ hikers. Very foggy, mizzle so not conducive to seeing any distance. Walking up Snowdonia did not appeal, would be a lower altitude version of Mt Everest. You and hundreds trailing up.

Our B&B beside the Prince Llewellyn pub in Beddgelert

Next day we drove back to Portmadog and hopped on the Ffestiniog Blaenau train for the three hour round trip. Oldest surviving railway in the world ( who knew) established in 1832. Blaenau is a slate town so this was the reason for the railway. Originally wagons were hauled up the 13miles by dray horses. Carriages returned by gravity at 1.25%. Life in the slate town would have been desperate, reminded us of Denniston.

Train called the David Lloyd George was a replica built in 1992.

Piles of slate

Little hamlets in the valleys. Hard going in the winters.

A nuclear power station we passed had been decommissioned.

The train ride as a treat for the soon to be birthday boy.... We then drove back the long way to Beddgelert via the Llyn  penninsular noted as a wonderful natural landscape ( welsh hyperbole). Some high crags, lots of bracken. 

Flowering heath on the hillsides, reminders of Scottish hills we had driven on the scanning years.

Misty hills of Wales

Fancy a hillside of slate behind your house?

A slate fence, very clever.

Called in here for drink after our day. Met a Dutch couple who were very interested in our chat. They have many short holidays over Europe given the proximity and price. Kiwis who fly a 24hrs to get here are admired.

Left Beddgelert and headed for National Trust Bodnant Gardens, which are in north Wales. When we last went in 1992 - dear me - it was early Spring. Not as dramatic this time being high summer and a drought. Nonetheless we very much enjoyed the magnificent trees and walk.




Called into Betws-y-Coed, a solid stone town built on the back of the booming slate period and part of the Snowdonia Park area. Lots of folks about.

Downtown/village Betsw-y-Coed


Next stop the Horseshoe Falls which in fact turned out to be a very large weir. Several large Indian families having a fun day and swimming in tshirts and shorts. St Tysillio's church was derelict around the outside but maintained inside. Robert Browning, the poet, had a memorial plaque.


Jeff thought his Nelson volunteer cemetery team would have quite a job cleaning this up.

Fabulous oak ceiling remodelled in 1580!


Near Llangollen is the Pontcysylte Aqueduct on the River Dee. The aqueduct carries the Llangollen canal over the river. It is 307m long and 4m wide. On the go since 1805 it is the highest in the world made of cast iron. One has to admire the skill from those times.

 
Folks pay £10 each for the 10 minute ride. We chatted to the canal boat driver who had been plying the canal for 15years, his father 25years previously. 



One of the brick aqueducts in the area.

The townsip of Llangollen accommodation was fully booked so we went up the road to The Chainbridge Hotel right beside the River Dee. The actual chainbridge has had quite history with floods taking it out intermittenly since built 1817. The hotel has also had a potted history with various booms and busts. We slept in one of the river rooms. Incredibly noisy, double glazing notwithstanding. Midges meant we did not leave a window open. A long night.

Outside our bedroom window at The Chainbridge Hotel.

Next day, Jeff's birthday, moved on to the Elan Valley in mid Wales. Elan Valley is a series of dams that provide water to Birmingham. A clever chap, called James Mansergh, in 1890 identified that the high rainfall, narrow valleys, impermable rock and being higher than Birmingham would be the perfect place for dams. The water is gravity fed over the 70 miles to Birmingham.  




Jeffs birthday treat, in addition to the train,  was the Red Kites at Gigrin farm near Rhadayer. We have seen and heard Red Kites since we arrived in the UK. There has been a big increase in their population due to species reintroduction and legal protection. They are scavengers similar to NZ harrier hawks. The farm feds these wild birds everday at 3pm. As the time ticks by they fill the sky and the sound of the tractor is the dinner bell.



Now based in Glasbury near Hay on Wye, the independent bookstore capital of Wales yahoo!! About to head in to stooge about for the day.













Last of Wales then Somerset 31st July - 4th August

We had a happy day wandering around Hay on Wye. Astounding number of bookshops of every genre.  From wee tiny walk sideways in to shops to w...