An easy journey from home to Istanbul. Although very unpatriotically we would say Turkish Airlines is far superior compared to AirNewZealand in all aspects of service, quality of offerings, products etc. Good to know we will return with them.
Got to our Airbnb 8.30pm having used the Metro then the bus from Airport. We were feeling a bit seedy by then to find 156 death defying steps to be negotiated, not an orange cone to be seen, let alone H&S warnings. Lodgings for the next few days all that we need including a view of the Bosphorus.
First day we walked for several hours taking in Istanbul from Taksim Square, down Istiklal Street to the Galata Tower. First impressions is the mix of run down buildings, very efficient transport, throngs of people. Notably very few tourists and still cooler Spring temperatures.
Istanbul is the largest city in Europe with 17 million population in the city. Just vast. Multiple mosques dot the seven hills that dominate the city. The call to pray can be heard city wide 6am, 1pm, 8pm and 10pm.
Many steep streets keep you honest. Apartment living for the residents, maximising the smallest space.
Along with 17 million people the city is also teeming with cats. Shelters, food, water is put out for them. Street cats are treated as community owned, protected residents. Cat boxes are everywhere, even bus stops. Bits of cardboard and carpet tucked around for them to snooze on. Who knew....
The Galata Tower gave great views of the city. Built in 1348 then plagued by several earthquakes and fires it has recently been restored. Walking across the Galata Bridge was a treat with many fishermen trying for sardines or horse mackerel.
Fishermen on the Galata Bridge, lined both sides vying for a spot. The bridge spans the Golden Horn connecting Beyoglu and Eminonu. Clevery designed with gaps of varying width underneath so that the boat traffic is not impeded.
On the otherside of the bridge is the famous Blue Mosque, a must see on any tourist "tick off" list. It is certainly spectacular. The other mosque tourists seek out is the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, or the magnificent. Built 537AD another imposing structure. We decided one mosque in a day is enough for us so walked around the Guilthane gardens ( well known for its tulip beds displays) past the Topkapi Palace (closed Tuesdays) and back across the bridge. Lots of Turks, some Russian, Eastern Europeans visitors but really few European tourists. Not crowded at all.
The Blue Mosque
Taps for ablutions before praying in the mosque. Seperate sides for men and women.
Turkey is a Sunni muslim country which accounts for 80 -90% of the Muslim religion followers. The balance is Shia, the hard core we know from Iran. To an outsider we observe the patriarchy, strong family bonds, women wearing chador, burka and niqab but not all. Folks work long hours for not much income, average annual income equates to NZD$18,000. Turkey has universal healthcare fortunately, very cheap transport costs. The bonds of the family support is one of the tennants of the Muslim religion and women are expected to be core to this.
Street sweepers having a break
At his stall since the early hours.
Local suburban garage.
Selling roasted chesnuts and corn on the cob on his stand all day.
Vendors take pride in appealing displays of there wares. This is a juice seller. Not many stands have English signage. When looking to buy anything, especially groceries, Google translate is invaluable although sometimes weird responses.
How we all wish our pantry stores looked like this.
Another protected resident.
Wednesday is market day around the Fatih mosque so decided to bus our way there. Wondered way no# 28T bus kept not appearing. Senior moment realised we were on the wrong side of the road!! A bus driver took pity and gave us a lift to where we wanted to go. Jeff gave him one of the small lapel kiwis we travel with. He was dead chuffed, big smiles. Istanbul has a travel card we bought on landing at the airport called Istanbulkart so for equivalent of NZD$17 - it can be used on ferrys, metro, buses until it needs topped up. Most fares are NZD$1.50.
The market was on all sides of the mosque and we always love wandering these as it gives you great insights into a culture. What is sold, the interaction of the sellers and of course people watching. Fatih seemed to be a very devout part of the city as generally only men run the stalls and women wearing chador, burka etc. Long black raincoats derigor if not wearing black chador. People are very respectful. We then walked on to Balat which has very eclectic housing, steep as. Finally found a coffee.
Artichokes
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| Standard shopping apparel. |
The bread seller, for equivalent of a few cents dougnut shaped bread snack called Simit, dipped in molasses and coated in sesame seeds can be had. They are throughout Istanbul, bus stations, anywhere folks may congregrate.
We carried on to an area called Balat. Has very steep streets with coloured houses, an anomaly here. Quite quirky. Took the ferry over to the Asian side of the Bosphorus -the
other side being European. Then back across thinking to go to the Dolmabahce Palace another supposed must see/do in Instanbul. A grandiose building with 258 rooms and 46 ballrooms, a statement constructed by the imperial family. We poked our noise in but decided to pass having seen several of these OTT edifices on our previous travels. Versailles takes some beating.
Coloured houses of Balat. The women in the red pants was taking a selfie with her cellphone on a portable stand. Honestly the number of females doing the juju lips pout and draping themselves about in model poses gets tiresome. Juju lips is the look. Even women in black have these Donald Duck lips protruding from the hijab.
Built for accessing the steep streets of Balat.
Traffic on the river is relentless both commercial and private. The river is 30km in length linking the Black Sea to the north to the Sea of Marama in the north west.
Because of the access to the Black Sea Turkey has no concerns about fuel supply thanks to Russia, Azerbaijan and others. No fuel hysteria here.!! A litre of 91 petrol is equivalent to NZD$2.36.
Couple of old boys trying to earn a living polishing shoes at the ferry terminal on the Asian side.
Dolmabahce Palace from the outside.
Jeff takes photos of doors, one of his many quirks.
After walking a fair amount last couple of days decided on the long ferry trip on the Bosphorus one way up to the Black Sea and to bus back. Lovely sunny day. Further appreciation of how such a huge city functions. Thankfully no smoking on the ferry. When in Europe you are constantly wreathed in cigarette smoke everywhere. In Turkey most folks smoke, especially men, and at $2 a packet it is cheap. Conversely Turkey has an epidemic of lung cancer. Discussed this with our lunch waiter yesterday and showed him what cigarettes cost in NZ. Incredulous was his reaction.
Anyway ferry trip well worth doing, notwithstanding an Eastern European women who talked incessantly behind us, it is usually an American which we can spot a mile away and swerve. We got off at Sariyer after seeing porpoises and a submarine, who would have thought. Sariyer was a funny wee town. Reminded us of Port Hardy in Canada with its austere looking buildings and townfolk living hard. Had lunch at a a family run pita cafe. Grandad slaved over the oven while sons and grandsons buzzed about serving. Entertaining to watch.
Bussed our wayback towards Findikli near our apartment. The trick on buses here is not to sit near the front. The drivers go like the clappers, sitting on the horn, weaving in amongst the traffic. Terrifying if looking out front and you are using your feet braking. Best to stand or sit nearer the back. The buses are packed generally.
Himself with Grandad rolling the pita dough.
Grandad working the pita oven.
Turkish submarine on its way back from the Black Sea.
This is a fortification on the narrowest part of the Bosphorus River which was used in the 15th century to control and toll traffic on the waterway (sound familiar; ala Strait of Hormuz) until the conquest of Constantinople (Istanbul) by the Ottomans.
Timber houses called Yalis from 18th century line the shores in the more opulent area.
Tomorrow we are planning the assault of the Spice and Grand Bazaars.
