Takayama

 Left our little hotel in Kyoto on the bullet train otherwise known as the Shinkansen. Another beautiful weather day.

The happy backpackers

Does this thing fly....at 300km per hour makes you feel a bit weird if you look out the window for too long. We changed trains at Nagoya seemlessly (we are pros now) and in no time arrived in Takayama. City of only 88,000 people, famous for old style houses; sanmachi suji  and just a lovely looking place with the rivers, surrounding hills. Has very cold winters, snow etc. Displays of spring bulbs and cherry blossoms everywhere.

Had booked a hotel by the station again as we had done in Osaka and Nara. Was a great choice as almost an apartment with a good view. Spent the afternoon mooching about the highlights.

Classic Takayama house

Everywhere you go in the world you see magnificent pots that you would just love to have at your front door. Sigh.

The highlight of the afternoon was tracking down a tool cum knife shop. Jeff specifically wanted to buy some Japanese wood working tools. Story of our lives when travelling coming home with: car parts, door hardware and now chisels!! Was a delightful little shop beautiful displayed being a husband and wife operation. 

The big purchase...I am sure the chaps at customs in NZ will be thrilled to see a Japanese saw and gouge.

Found a great hamburger place for dinner, yes sad I know but we were local cuisined out.

Anyway the "Eviltex" did excellent fish and pulled pork burgers with fries. Met a young Dutch couple who we shared a table with. Resturants here are very small, 10 diners only sometimes so rather than que outside it pays to "make friends". They were travelling in Japan for three months but covering the whole country whereas we are only travelling Honshu region. Had a hilarious conversation about all manner of things and am sure we will see them in NZ oneday.

 Next morning very early had a quick lap of the morning market in the vain hope of a fruit vege stall but alas no. Really struggle here for a range of fresh fruit if at all. Bananas, tangelo maybe. A kiwifruit would set you back $2 each,  if found.

Crisp blue sky day

Amazing range of bonsai plants ....stall owner a bit shy

Throughout the city they have tiles set in with directions in Japanese and English. People are unfailing courteous and helpful.  Even with no English or us Japanese will enter into the charades required to help.

Little cafe we found for breakfast - an egg, sliceof toast and good coffee.

Elderly owner and daughter. Elderly are revered here with general good manners for them all the time. The over 65yrs are 30% of the population in Japan and under 15yrs half that. At least in NZ the ratio is 17% over 65yrs and double under 15yrs age. Japan's population needs to increase the birth rate but proving to be a challenge.

Classic

This Ginkgo bilboa tree is 1,200 years old next to various shrines. We had to touch it such was its reverence. Had various icons in and around it.

Back to the bus station for an 8.50am bus to Shawirawago. An hours ride further into the mountains. We thought the Italians were good at tunnels but the Japanese are in the same league. Maybe our Ministry of Transport or whatever they call themselves can just get in the experts rather than reinvent the wheel?

The town is known for its 50+ thatched houses from 1800's still occupied. Area also has Onsens ( hot pools). Many Japanese visit duet to  the landscape and "nature".

The lashings of the roof is an artwork. The thatch is 800mm thick. All structures wooden with no wall insulation that we could see. Must be frigid in the winter period December to March. Windows are small and little natural light inside. Heating is oil fired and or gas.

Small plots at each house preparing the ground for planting

Rice paddies not yet flooded in front

Replacing the thatch

This chap using a tractor rather than rotary hoe for rice planting in two weeks. It is harvested last two weeks of October and the town has a big festival in thanks.

Could be New Zealand

Rather eclectic house

Note the carved dragon bead in the left corner of this " house with potential".

Baby snow plough, every house should have one

Incredible carvings on the entrances to tunnels, note the lack of traffic/safety signage which would be a blight on this. 

So another fascinating day had topped off by an interesting dinner in a wee place with a couple of Americans, Robert and Jade, who in their words had "lived on a commune for years but in later life were now capitalists". Again a diner that only took 12 people you had to know it was there,  run by husband and wife serving vegetarian/ vegan food.  

Tomorrow we head to Kanazawa for the gardens and the gorge railway we hope.

Kyoto

 Staying at a little hotel, only 7 rooms, in the Gion district. The breakfast, evening drinks area looks out on to a tributary of the Kamo River that runs through Kyoto. City of 1.5m+ citizens of high density. The river is very clear as are the tributaries, how do they do it?

Our hotel vista

The Kamo River

We spent yesterday walking the city which is set out on a grid pattern. Residential areas are very quiet with children in day care or at school and parents working. A few elderly sweep the streets but otherwise eerily quiet. First stop was the Imperial Palace. Japanese royalty lived there until mid 1800's then decamped to Tokyo. The emperor has kept up the buildings but we found it to be a sterile, souless place. Only one building was free to enter otherwise by tour or booked online and opening at 11am. Not really our style when out and about from 8am.

On of the gates in to the Imperial Palace grounds

They even rake the gravel

The Daitoku Ji temple had very precise Japanese gardens. The moss was being protect from birds by fishing line and each plant trimmed leaf by leaf. Again huge wooden buildings. Got quite excited when we saw a cat on one of the tempke buildings, as noted previously othe than hand bag dogs see no animal life.

Said moggy

In Japan petrol is less than $2 per litre. Instead of bowsers on the forecourt hoses hang down from the ceilings. Most cars are tiny boxy things due to the narrow streets and dearth of parking options. The public transport system is second to none due to population. Bus fare a flat $2.75NZD equivalent anywhere and if you miss one bus will be another in 5 to 10 mins. The trains are numerous and efficient with well dress helpful guards and drivers. Everything is well maintained, clean and works like clock work. Although we love walking and seeing the nooks and crannies when you want respite there is always a bus nearby.

Vertical bowsers

Young entrepreneurial guy with his coffe set up in a corner site, was your own cup

Next stop was the Kyoto Botanic gardens. Just lovely and had labels in both Japanese and English.

Friend Jennie would love all the Bonsai displays

Huge peony displays with local artists doing pencil drawings

Many areas with small ponds, japanese maples and various other plants.

After taking in the sights we got back to the hotel, quick tidy up and out for dinner to a nearby place recommended by the hostess. Classic Japanese cuisine of tiny perfectly presented dishes; white fish omelete was 4 cubes the size of sugar cubes in the bottom of a small dish, tomato salad one tomato sliced, sushumi delicate morsels.Needless to say although tasty,  cheese on toast on return, if possible, appealed!!

Today saw us up away early for 2 x trains and bus some 2 hours north east of Kyoto to an area called Kayabuki no sato; to a village called Kita. Jeff very keen to see the working 200yr old thatched village. Stunning country side travelling there, all bush clad hills, tumbling streams or rice paddies and large vege growing areas. 

Not a sky hook to be seen

This is the stooges used for the thatching

Temps down to zero and " highs" of 6C in the winter. Plenty of wood burning. Japans electricity only 20% renewable...hydro, solar etc. Most is from burnung crude oil, natural gas, coal and nuclear. 

By

Back into Kyoto we swung by Nishiki market area which was heaving with tourists. Made a fast escape.

Individually wrapped carrots. Everything is in plastic or cellophane here. Packaging galore. You want two sticky buns they are each packaged having them in the same bag unknown

Strawberry and orange sandwiches

Scallops used in sushi

Unknown fish

Japan rail have a sense of humour no less ......this is known as the kitty express

In the mornings every bus stop has a gaggle of children in school uniforns, always tidy with shiny shoes. A dad on the bus this morning had his small daughter beside him asleep. Only her 2nd week a school and struggling with the early starts. 

Tomorrow we head to Takayama 3 hours or so by train heading east - known for the woodworking. Weather still perfect.