Jigokudani Yaen Koen - Snow Monkeys

 

We took a bit of a milk run to get here - train, bus and walking but so worth it. We felt like we had stepped into a David Attenborough documentary on the Japanese macaque monkeys. Had to pinch ourselves that we were actually here.

These are the famous snow monkeys that you see pictures of them sitting in the thermal pools covered in snow during the winter. No snow today obviously but nonetheless so much fun and interesting. We were enthralled.

The National Park is located in the Yokoyu River. Altitude of 850m with steep cliffs and steam rising from the hot springs. Snow covered for 4 months of the year. This is the Japanese macaques happy place as they bathe, sit in the hot springs in the harsh winter weather or come down to drink and generally muck about. There are over 200 in the troop and "keepers" watch over them in so far as visitors let the monkeys roam easily.

Understood that they have been living in this area since "ancient times. 

The wee guys are just sooo cute

They were absolutely non plussed by the 40 odd tourists milling about the pools and river. Live video cameras are on all the time and tapped into by primate researchers.

The keepers do blow a whistle and the herd literally pours down the steep cliffs in the hope of apples or bean seeds. Pavlovian response again. But they also love lounging around in the sun, constantly groooming or mucking about in the river, turning over the rocks for anything of interest.

There is catcher netting on some of the cliff sides to stop falling rocks rather than keep the monkeys restricted.

Itoigawa to Matsumoto

 

No not Star Trek but a shower in our hotel. Usually has a stool and basin (in bath) for sitting in front of the shower to wash?? We stand there like a couple of muppets sometimes trying to nut it all out.

Today 26th April was forecast for dreary rain so our plan of taking the Oito Line, which is very very rural and scenic, to Matsumoto was a winner. Again some classic old chuggers through nowheresville but interesting.

The Oito line goes through mountains that hosted the Winter Olympics in 1998 at a village call Kubrick. The are winter resorts most of the way but of course now is the low season, no skiable snow.

Masses of concrete in these river valleys endeavouring to keep water under control

There is actally a road to the left in the columns. Very Italian with undergrowth.

Stone walls laid down years ago no doubt

Very Lord Snowden from Jeff

Japan Rail must loose on these rural lines, really  crowded as you can see, not.

Another ancient station where we had to change to another clatterer and chugger. Always clean and the toilets immaculate. Not like some countries where " hanging on" is the safest option.

Yep as they say in Scotland - a dreich day.

This old house is determined to keep its spot in Matsumoto

Arrival at Matsumoto. Hotel near station so dropped our bags and straight out to walk to the Castle. Built 1590 with usual ransackings, burnings and then restoration.

We crawl up the tower on very vertical steps. There is actually 6 levels but one is hidden between 3 and 4 - for armory, gun powder etc.

This wisteria is ancient, how it still flowers is a wonder of nature

Shows the castle in the middle in bygone days

Excelled again with this pasta and pizza establishment for dinner. Hosts a delight and food exceptionally good. A delicious crunchy salad we were hanging out for.

Kurobe Gorge

 We researched the logistics of getting from Kanazawa to the Kurobe Gorge as a day trip. Although timings and transitions from trains was very tight we were up for the challenge. Weather glrious.  So took the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Kanazawa to Kurobe Unazuki Onsen.  A brisk walk across to the Shin Kurobe station then on to a local train heading to Unazuki Onsen. It was an old classic locomotive that swayed, rattled and chugged along. On arrival we literally sprinted and hurdled over gates to get on to Kurobe Gorge train. Like a toy train with open carriages. So funny going from Shinkansen at 300km per hr graduating to toy train.

The railway makes its way up the gorge through spectacular scenery. It is a outstounding engineering feat of bridges, cantilevered track and tunnels in very trying terrain

All the fence railings throughout central Japan are coated in plastic pseudo cedar to look natural. Really take asthetics to the extreme. Form matters.

Almost an illusion this bridge

Some hydro on the river

Train is only going 1/2 hour into the gorge at this time as just out of winter then return. Is fully closed Oct to early April. We went as far a Sasadaira. Summer trip a further 50 minutes on then return.

Plenty of staff

Obligatory selfie with guard in the background

The staff all wave madly when the train arrives and again on departure.

We were amazed to be the only non Asians. There were 150 on this train and 300 or so on other toy trains. Not sure why no other Europeans as where this train starts there is a large Onsen resort hence all the Japanese, who love hot springs. 

Even have a whistle girl. Uniforms are always immaculate.

All the new spring growth really had the wow factor. Must really be something in the Autumn.

This is a power station, someone had the sense of the bizarre.

The staff wipe down all the sitting between each trip. Japanese always cleaning.

This is the Onsen resort and as below even has a hot spring fountain. Yes coats do indicate a balmy 10C day in the mountains

The trap for young players we have got wise to is there is often stations with a similar name; Shin Kurobe and Kurobe Unazuki

This is the closed in version of the Kurobe gorge train

Retraced our steps at a more gentile pace so had time for our packed lunch beside a ???

Not sure what the red getups were for but made for interesting lunch company

Some classic old stations in these very rural areas. If there is a toilet in there you can bet it will be very clean.

Back at Kurobe Unazuki Osen station we were the only folks getting the Shinkansen back to Kanazawa. A guard mid train. This is early afternoon. All at work or school. This is why when you wander about villages, city's it is so quiet away from the main street.

Paddy fields everywhere

This is underwater cultivation Japan style.

Rice will be planted shortly

So after all the excitement of the day a good dinner was in order. Tasks are allocated: Jeff daily sight seeing, taking photos. Sandra accommodation, food finding and blog. Together we nut out the logistics of travel. We feel we are getting pretty slick at the train, bus, walk activity!

And so I really excelled myself tonight with this sushi bar. Food was sublime.

Just so fresh and a real expert.

2x shrimp, congor eel, beak fish, salmon roe, tuna, scallop, 3? and 

ginger of course.

Jeff a happy bunny and although Mum and Dad team only spoke Japanese we learnt heaps and had some laughs with them. It was like we were in their lounge with the TV on some news programme.

You would walk right past unless you had Google Maps.