Tuesday, 5 September 2023

To Salmond Arm and Premberton

Hit the road early leaving Calgary in rain and very low skies. Visibility also impacted by smoke. Wild fires are a natural annual feature of Canada. Everywhere you look or hike are the remnants of some previous decades fire. Trees are standing ghosts or on the ground in amongst regrowth of fir trees 30years+. Seemingly 1971 was a very bad year we were told. Gigatonnes of carbon goes into the atmosphere each year from the fires. Other than the smoke haze over the country we have only seen past fires.

We noticed in Calgary and other towns houses are generally all of one colour in various areas. Bylaws have a range of olive, dull brown and grey palettes with the occasional splash of vanilla. Our scoria red house would never be allowed!! 

Made our way on the Trans Canadian highway to the town of  Golden for a coffee stop. Rather eclectic cafe and good coffee.

Now bears....we see people jiggling bells or carrying "bear spray". Theory being if you see a bear squirt them like they were a fly and the bear will take umbrage and amble off.  We just hike, they are more likely to be scared of you. Also not baby cub season.

Love the "not closed"

The town also has a roofed river bridge. Theory is that the bearers last longer if snow and ice are kept off them.


As is everywhere Canada is all about winter activities. Snow tires and chains 1st Oct to 31st March.

Clever display of used equipment

We noticed in Alberta, other than being one hour ahead, that cars are not required to have a rego plate on the front of cars? Brought in 20 odd years ago to "save money". Their fuel price is 30 cents less than British Columbia. Every province you must pay before you fill petrol by inserting a debit card and nominate an amount. Attendant not required other than store sales. British Columbia is known as BC - bring cash as one wag told us. Differences are federal taxes and provincial idiosyncrasies.

Salmon Arm was a utilitarian town as are many but did have some whimsical features we enjoyed.

Salmon Arm lake end. Water usually up to the trees but low by summers end.


Fabulous little theatre.

All along the Trans Canadian highway we are driving the Canadian Pacific railway is never far away. We see trains all day and took note. 207 heavy goods wagons being hauled by 3 engines with 2 engines at the back. Then 164 double stacked sea container wagons being hauled by 1 engine at the front, 1 in the middle and 1 at back. We are not trainspotters by any regard but epic amounts are hauled throughout steep mountain passes on spiral tracks.


Everywhere logging. Here they have been floated down the river to finish up beside the mill. Some the mills are a small town in themselves covering huge acreages. Plenty of employment to be had and support industries.


I felt underdressed at coffee this morning. Goth look still in. This is near yet another cannibis store. Shops are called names like High Mtn, Glorious Green. Whereas we have an epidemic of Vape shops in NZ everywhere here its weed shops.

Food in the south of British Columbia and Alberta has changed from the north in so far as
heat attack burger and fries has an alternative they call "glory bowls".  This is salad, nuts, seeds, say shredded carrot, beets and you can add tuna, prawn or chicken.  Really good. A God send really as we are Caesar Saladed out.  There is area in BC that is a wine tour area locals rave about.  We have tried a Canadian wine and it was ghastly, no other words would describe the thin sweet liquid.  On menus here there maybe one alternative to the said ghastly wine from say Argentina or Chile. Even at times the NZ bulk plonk from Kim Crawford or Oyster Bay. 

We have driven 5,000 kms thus far (yes Jeff's driver extraordinaire) and seen basically no road kill. Only in the last week we saw a wolf and skunk dead on the road. Given the traffic, road use astounding. So many big rigs/trucks there are lines of them. We notice they put on all indicators when going up any hills to show they are crawling to other traffic.

Birds....other than migratory we do not see or hear many. Small birds barely present in towns reflected by crabapple trees retaining all the fruit, in NZ they are stripped by passerines i.e finches, sparrows. Many crows here though.

We have been passing large RV (recreational vehicles) parks throughout our travels. During covid whereas in NZ we got a dog in Canada more RVs were purchased. Now many are not required so they park them in lots as bylaws in most places do not allow parking in the driveways or on the street hence RV storage. There are literally thousands of these beasts.

Kamloop Lake view point. Country side changed as we neared Kamloop from wall to wall fir trees to terrain not unlike Central Otago.

Still like each other so far!!

This is part of the Marble canyon past Cache Creek

State Highway 99.....very impressive rock faces. Good windy driving for Jeff. 

This is part of the Fraser River the longest in BC....1400km long.

Note the rail line. Seton Lake.

Now in Premberton, small town to the north of Whistler. Not so rapacious. Tomorrow we will drive to the Sea to Sky gondola (recommended by friend Peter Johnson) on the outskirts of Vancover, to hike the 7km up and take the gondola down. Contrary to what most others do but we like to be contrary.











Sunday, 3 September 2023

Calgary, Alberta



The $20 CAD trim.

We left Watertone Park and headed to Calgary. This is Fort McMurray one of the" old towns" on the way. Barbershop was a classic as was the barber.  The landscape was dead flat arable country. Thousands of hectares of oats, barley etc interpersed by the odd house. Dozens of silos and we spotted a line up of 16 combine harvesters. If you mistakenly left your lunch on a post before you started you would not get back to it by lunchtime as the paddocks were massive. Big areas farmed by Bretheren and Amish.

Arrived to the west of Calgary at Jeff's friend Brenda. She was on the Contiki trip with Jeff in 1979. She lives in a condominium (duplex, semi detached) with her sister. Very generous of them to host us for a couple of days.

Next day went for a  morning walk in Gifford Park, 93ha in the city. Took in the Heritage Park also that houses the "Gasoline Alley" display Jeff wanted to see.

Gifford Park
Gasoline Alley
Hertage Park

Lunch was at a "farmer market". We did admire all the trays of raspberries, strawberries, and blueberries. Blueberries worked out to $20NZD for 2kgs!! If only at home.


Next day lovely blue sky so a visit to the city to take in the river walk. This is 60km cycle/ walk with multiple bridges and passing through old and modern areas.  We were unable to rent cycles as shop closed ( for the Pride parade?) but walked 11km with lots of interesting things to see.
The river is used by paddle boarders, kayak and rafting folks. They have an area where the river has been diverted into manmade grades 1,2,3 rapids. 

Calgary downtown



Interesting mix 
This is on the leftbank, notice all the seating and wide enough for all users
Some of the steering left a bit to be desired. Canadian geese took it in their stride

This was a good cafe for a lunchbreak. Met a couple from Calgary and chatted for an hour. He was a local and his wife originally Mexico. Were good fun and he had backpacked in the late 70's in NZ. They travel extensively. Lamented the economy and politics of Justin Trudeau.

The city council have really tried to make river area, a valuable feature,  safe and fun for everyone. Someone worked out if you have lights on all night the vagrant population will not inhabit under the bridges so that folks do not have to step over sleepers and their detritus.

No light on this path underpass.

Many families use the Peace Park near the man made rapids as a picnic area. This is a holiday weekend - the end of sumner in Canada called Labour Day - plenty of families with an array of floatation devices.

Even the dog has a float device.

That evening we decided to check out the impro theatre called the Loose Moose in the city. Went to a nearby cafe "Cactus Club", manic but good meal. The theatre group of 12 were very good with all sorts of short ad lib acting which was "scored" by the audience.
Met a couple who had driven three hours to have a "date night" the distances folks drive astounds us.


We felt very brave driving back at 10pm on freeways in a city we did not know. Did ok!!

There is an area East of Calgary called Drumheller. A unique landscape and back in 1884 someone discovered it was choca with dinosaur remains. Paleontology heaven. There is magnificent  museum which we spent sometime in. Also landscape is nothing like we have seen before. Wind erosion of Bentonite, cyclonic floods, glaciers coming and going over millennia have crafted this. 
Known as the Hoodoos. 
We were appalled that folks could walk all over this lanscape. It was unique.

Local resident a few million years ago. There as literally dozens of dinosaur of every variety in the museum. According to the writeups various species came and went - extinct - depending on the then climate. Some like dry centuries, others wet, ice age or warmer periods. Evolution and a changing climate. Sounded very familiar without the hysterics.



Amazing to find complete specimens


So an interesting time in this part of Alberta. Travelling tomorrow to the west again towards Vancouver.















Thursday, 31 August 2023

Revelstoke to Nelson to Waterton National Park



Bridge into Revelstoke

Our accommodation....the Courthouse Inn

So we left Revelstoke heading south towards Nelson taking the more secondary road. Took the car ferry from Shelter Bay to Galena across Upper Arrow Lake. Slick operation running every half hour. Asked one of the staff why the river level was so low. Seems there is a treaty between Canada and USA whereby the USA take water and hence the big tide mark. Even in the winter it was been this low. Understood the treaty to be all one way!!

Murky skies throught Canada from fires in USA and north BC.


Low lake level

Stopped for lunch before Naksup, then to New Denver. This is where there was an interment camp for Japanese Canadians. British Columbian goverment interned 23,000 Japanese Canadians in 1942 in several camps and this was one of them. Miserable huts with no water etc. At the end of WW2 government said they could go East of the country or leave Canada. Sophies Choice.

Jeff's famous lunches
Remains of the interment camp

Lake Kootenay. This lake is 100km long and 402 sq km in area. Just goes on and on. Both sides of the road wall to wall spruce etc so get the odd glimpse. Passed through an historic town called Kaslo, buildings have been preserved since 1890 well worth a stop, lots of water sport's underway with folks on their last week summer holidays.

 Into Nelson where we stayed at the Hume Hotel same era as Kaslo. Had kept a lot of the original features. Loved the old photos and a grand wooden staircase up to our 4th floor room. Had a nice feel in the town and actually has a main street with independent shops and an array of independent restuarants....Marzano recommended. Nelson like Revestoke and so many other places we have been to is all about skiing and nordic skiing. 

Nelson main street
Delightful photo on the landing in the Hume Hotel. Such a happy we face.

Next morning we tackled the Pulpit Rock hike. Again vista obscured by smoke but we saw yet another chipmunk. Did the town walk of historic buildings then hit the lake for a swim. Water was probably 16c but a 29c day so coped. Found a coffee shop which we enjoyed our second decent coffee since arrival.



Murky view to Nelson
Hiking poles at left for those that need one.
We are in love with Chipmunks

Real coffee at Osgo Negro

Beach on the lake .....bottom of the huge Kootenay
And yes we went in twice. Never thought we would swimming in a lake in Canada!

Some of the driving sights. Lots of iron disease here

Fab murals in some of the nowhere towns.

Left Nelson after two nights at the Hume Hotel and did the 6 hr drive to Waterton National Park. 29c on arrival with the lake well in use with paddle  boards etc. This National Park is very close to the USA border and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The lake is 148m deep at the upper end surrounded by more impressive mountains. Also known for the iconic Prince of Wales hotel which stands on a prominent position overlooking the hamlet. Was built in 1920 by The Great Canadian Railway company as a resort. Incredible building huge amount of timber, something like a Canadian Alpine version of Downtown Abbey.

Princeof Wales Hotel at Waterton
Great lounge and view out torre torrential rain notwithstanding

Our next day unfortunately was heavy rain and 11c!!! So a hike in the rain to Bertha Falls, laundry done and had  a look at said hotel. CAD $60 each for high tea CAD £450 per night,  in which we did not partake. Had a glass of wine and took in the atmosphere. Met a lovely young couple with baby who had driven from Red Deer by Edmonton just for the weekend. The distances folks drive.

Waterton hamlet
 Bertha Falls
Walking in the rain in Scottish coats and Japanese umbrellas





Last post 13th August - 17th August

  Jeff swimming with Suki at Weston Super Mare beach Thursday was another 35C day so we arrived at the Uphill end of the beach very early on...