Thursday, 24 August 2023

Prince Rupert to Jasper





We left Prince Rupert township on the Yellowhead Highway towards Jasper some 1,150 kms 12hrs driving away. 
Had a look at Port Edward just down the road which has the historic Nth Canadian Cannery as a ghostly reminder of more prosperous times.
Closed down in the 60's but all the machinery, factory, houses and barracks remain. Some 200 staff lived there from 1900. Wooden buildings with huge wharf area where millions of salmon processed and canned. Mostly Japanese, Chinese and few locals lived there May to October each year.

Were just one hour from Smithers, our accommodation for the night, when a road accident closed the road for four hours. Got to meet other travellers, fishermen and truckies on the road side as we wiled away the time. Made it into Smithers with 1/2 an hour to spare before last dining option closed...a hot tip from another roadside traveller.




Smithers is a nordic/cross country skiing centre. Many trails through the forests and the  "downtown" area lots of alps type establishments. Stayed the next day and ticked off the town river walk, crater lake hike and twin falls. Folks are very patriotic with Canadian flags on many homes, businesses and even little flags put on your dinner.


Smithers to Prince George was uneventful and the town of Prince George even more so where we stayed. We took a long walk to a dinner option we had been recommended and as Jeff said saw the underbelly. As cannabis is legal and sold in shops we saw a girl cross in front of us carrying her groceries and a cannabis plant!!!
No real Main Street as big box establishments scattered about. Prince George town 80,000 people and like many towns thus far in Northern British Columbia geared to services for trucks, machinery, big rigs, engineering.  Off the highway are huge portocom establishments that hundreds of chaps live in while working in logging or the gas/oil pipelines. Canadian govt decided to use their own resources eg gas and oil rather than import. NZ could take notice. Also a lot of fly in fly out here similar to Australia.  Work in the oil sands area for four weeks then get flown back home for 10 days or so.


Have not been able to see much in the distance due to the smoky skies from the fires many kms away. Left Prince George and rained all the way to Jasper. This should help with air quality but not any views.




On the way to Jasper stopped in at "the ancient forest". Remaining hectares of Western Red Cedar (thuja plicata) that are over >1,000 years old. The one I am standing beside is >5m at the base. The area has been boardwalked to save the swallow roots of these old trees. Seemingly the "Forest Service" were logging these giants and incredulously burning then up until 1990's then saw the error of their way.

We opted to stay in East Jasper 35 minutes away from Jasper township. Like all resort towns accommodation is pricey and staying 35 minutes down the road reduces cost considerably.
Our cute cabin with wee squirt Toyota

A glimpse of the Rockies, massive piles of bare faced stone. 

Jeff is finding driving on the otherside of the roads easy. Very wide roads generally, no Whangamoa windy roads at all. Huge rigs, RV's and Dodge Ram vehicles need the space.
Speed limit 100km phr or 70km phr if "wildlife" roaming. We have seen black bears, moose, deer. 

This morning was a visit into Jasper. Felt like Wanaka or Queenstown. We visited the laundrette which was on an industrial scale.

Includes a barrista where we had our first decent coffees since arrival in Canada.

We were appalled to find the town boasted two cannabis stores but no bookstore!!!No hope for civilisation. Canadian govt considering making cocaine, fentanyl legal in addition to cannabis I kid you not.
Having bought some of our picnic set from home, purchased a small chilly bin we are setup for breakfasts and make lunches.  We love our fresh fruit and greek yoghurt whereas de rigueur here is waffles slathered in maple syrup with muffins for breakfast. Also de rigueur is hamburgers and fries, every iteration thereof. Even something called poutine - layers of french fries with gravy and cheese. No wonder the populous are so obese.
We manage to dodge our way around said hamburgers and poutine with Caesar salads and pasta variations if dining out or cook ourselves in cabins. 




Jasper National Park has many hiking trails. This afternoon was the Maligne which was a doddle. We felt underdressed as other hikers looked set to walk to the Antarctic such was the volume and fashion of clothing, boots etc.


Stopped raining and blue sky day forecast for tomorrow. Hopeful of clear views.


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