Yorkshire #2 9th- 14th July

 

These are a couple of photos of Robert Thompson Mouseworks at Kilburn. Handmade oak furniture with a signature mouse somewhere on the piece. Everything from dining  tables, sideboards, coffee nests and lamp stands. Beautiful workmanship. Jeff had been hoping to chat to one of the craftsman but not to be. Was a very wet day and few folks about for the showroom and viewing area. Strayed into Ampleforth for lunch but on a wet Tuesday, all was closed. Helmsley next stop was open for a bite, we decided to come back another day for an easier look about.

Fountains Abbey and Studley Water Gardens was the next days outing. A movie was being shot inside the Abbey by Danny Boyle (think Trainspotting, Slumdog Millionaire) so only a walk around the perimeter of the ruins and gardens was possible. I argued the toss about having to pay full admission price to no avail. 

The ruins are near Ripon in North Yorkshire and a National Trust site. Back in 1132 thirteen monks were expelled from a York Abbey and decided to do their own thing on land by the River Skell, which was gifted to them. The valley had stone, woods, plenty natural springs hence the monks called the new Abbey " Fountains."  The Abbey did very well for 400 years but then fell to the dissolution of monasteries declared by Henry V111, whose henchman was Thomas Cromwell. The dissolution was to eliminate all Catholic monasteries, convents etc ( some 900 religious sites) and all their wealth given over to the crown. Henry splurged the funds on military campaigns.

Photo taken from a pictorial board in the Visitors Centre as the weather did not offer sunny views.

Although bridges have a function an effort was made for them to have some style several centuries ago.

There were culverts carrying water throughout the site. Learnt from the Romans we guess and still doing their task.

The water gardens (English for lakes and ponds) were cleverly laid out. The grounds were full of enormous trees, follies and viewpoints known as Studley Royal Park, all 800 acres of it.

To the left one of the follies (building of no practical use; built as a pretender)

The dog and I dwarfed by a Sycamore tree.

The family that came to own Studley Royal Park and the Abbey ruins from 1760 erected two churches to honour family members killed in various overseas campaigns such was their then wealth. The park area reminded us of Richmond Park in London with Sika deer mooching about.

There were two National Trust members at the church providing information and Bill who played by ear even gave us a tune on the organ. Was such a dreary day and  they seemed grateful to chat to a couple of kiwis. Chap had an encyclopedic knowledge of the church history. On a good day they can host 100 pp but today maybe half a dozen.

 

We strolled past with the dog and the deer did not even look our way.

Next day the Driffield Turkish Barber had a visit from Jeff. There is a market there on a Thursday morning but we have been terribly spoilt by the markets in France so an English one did not come anywhere near.  Set off on a 12km hike in the afternoon with the dog. Followed canal paths, through villages and fields. Stopped in at the Nafferton pub to give us and the dog a break. Greek owner of 15years had plenty of interesting chat. He felt cafes were also killing country pubs as they offered lunches every day which is not possible for them. He has one of the few free houses (not brewery owned) but said every day was a struggle.

Nearby to where we are based is Hull, a port town on the river 25miles inland from the North Sea. The Humber bridge was the worldest longest single span bridge when built in 1981 at 2.2km. Quite a feat of engineering and we wandered the walkway below along the north bank . There is also an old mill that used to crush limestone into a slurry that is then used in everything from pharmaceuticals to food. Was powered by sails initially (trashed in a storm) then given over to fuel.

The bridge can handle a 4m sway with the way the platform is constructed.

A chap from the local council was in attendance at the mill who for two mornings a week chatted with visitors like us. We thought this was a good use of council staff who are often invisible to ratepayers, other than in high visibility jackets surrounded by cones. ( in NZ)

Drove to Easington to see the lighthouse but pretty wet so called into Keyingham for lunch. Everywhere we go the dog can come in with us and she sits under the table good as. The town had a stand alone butcher so we went in as we always like to see prices, product sourced etc. The butcher, who took over from his father, said business was not as good as it could be due to the poor summer weather, BBQs not happening. When he came into the business there were 6 or 7 butchers in the surrounding villages but now just him. He sources his meat from the surrounding farms from guys he went to school with, who took over their father's farms, so he was very confident of his meats provenance. He was already filling his order book for Xmas as the busiest time of the year for him. We asked how he thought he was still in business (notwithstanding the superb window display) and he thought it was because he loved it and wanted to stay in business hence constantly looking for what folks wanted/ offering service. We wished him well after purchasing some smoked bacon.

Villages go all out with flower displays.

The Helmsley bakery had folks queueing out the door.

Saturday thought we would have another go at visiting Helmsley sans driving rain via the Malton market. Too wet for much to see at Malton but the scone and coffee were great! In Helmsley enjoyed wandering around the village. Good bookstore and Jeff was given a proof copy of a book he had wanted no charge! Local church bells were being rung continuously which we enjoyed. Onto Rievaulx Terrace to see a couple of temples and the view over Rievaulx Abbey ruins ( which we had hiked to in a previous visit).

A coat day.

Rievaulx Abbey was started by William 1 in 1132 but like so many others became another statistic in Henry V111 drive to rid the UK of Catholic monasteries.

Jeff with Lottie in front of one of the temples/ follies on the terrace which was built over 8 years by 100 chaps from 1749 so that the landowner could host visitors from Duncombe Hall. They walked from one temple along the terrace to the next.

This temple was really a glorified tea room for the landowner to show off his wealth and the views from the terrace over the Abbey ruins.

Inside the temple, the ceiling was lovely. There was another floor under all this that were the kitchens to prepare food etc.

Onto Scampton Hall with its walled gardens. Dogs were allowed on the 80 acres of arboretum but not the walled gardens. Many of these country estates were landscaped by Capability Brown, who was famous for his grand landscapes using water and stunning park design where money was no object. Mature trees were moved about to get just the right vista.

No one lives in Scampton Hall. Your London flat probably warmer and brighter than these historic piles.

Absolutely stunning Copper Beech tree vista. Fussy clipped hedging in the foreground.

Cannot imagine making waves out of beech hedging.

Inside the walled garden. Using perennials with blue, lilac colours which bees adore in cooler climates.

Sunday we had planned to do a walk at Filey Peninsular and loop through the town, was wet but if you allowed that to stop you here you would barely get about. There was a huge parking/ camping area at the start with extortionate parking fee of £4 for two hours. Many campervans and even tents park up because it is summer? And beside the sea. Was steady rain and wind when we started out. The dog packed a complete sad after 5 minutes, sat down and would not move unless we turned around and went back to the car. So she goes back into her car seat and we continue on.

We laughed when we read on a good day you can see to Bempton cliffs ( where the puffins were).

Wild and slowly being eroded by the pounding North Sea.

A couple from Manchester took this for us, we were not the only walkers determined to get out and about. At least their dog was a trooper with its dog raincoat.

Tonight is the football match between Spain and England, from 8pm many will be glued to BBC 1 free view or at the pubs, in the hope England wins the European Cup. We are quietly rooting for Spain!