Budapest, Hungary 26th June - 1st July

 

Budapest parliment building

Bit of a journey from Nice to Budapest on Serbia Air arriving at 4pmish after leaving Nice apartment at 7am. Thankfully we had booked a shared shuttle from Budapest airport to our Airbnb in the city as the airport is 21km away.  The temperature was 42C, I kid you not.!! Thank goodness we did not have to cope with that while trying to read Hungarian and negioating public transport options with packs. Mercifully there was a terrific thunderstorm early next morning and temps dropped 10C to 32C.

Apartment is in the centre of the city of 1.8m people (Hungary est. 9.6m). Handy to trams, metro, buses etc. 

On the 5th floor again, views from the balcony.

Spartan but all we need.

First stop stocking up. Hungarian language is something else, lots of z, t and k's. At least in France you can nut it out but not a hope here so the trusty google translate comes into it's own.

Is this cereal or laundry powder?

First day we had booked a cycle tour around the city with a local guide. Before hand we walked to what is called the Central Market for produce. After the quality and choice of France would have to say Hungary a disappointment. 😪 Limited to say the least and quality dodgy. Bulked up our shopping list from Lidl (dire) Spar and Tesco (yay).

Central market

Meat mad in Hungary. Most popular dish is Goulash - stew with turnips, potatoes or sausages of every iteration. Ghastly.

Cycle tour was very good with just us and the guide called Carson. The bikes were like something from the 50's or the war even, big black clunkers.  Carson was a very erudite and did not hold back on his opinions of Hungarian life, which was refreshing.

Dodged all about the central city which gave us a good overview for the coming days. Crossed bridges over the Danube River multiple times going from Pest (the flat, rich side of Budapest) to Buda; the rocky poorer side of Budapest. Was a fun 3.5hrs with lots of stopping and famished afterwards.

In front of the Castle Hill

After lunch at the apartment we had a stroll about, nothing too serious, as Jeff had an epic walk planned for the next day.

Buildings in Budapest have suffered from neglect over the years, but since 1989, when they escaped the clutches of the Soviet, they have slowly tried to improve infrastructure in general.

Thumbprint history of Hungary: Habsburgs rulers from 1687 to 1918. Hungary on the wrong side of WW1 expels Habsburgs, now communist. 

WW2 Hungary on the wrong side again, allies of Nazi Germany. The Budapest ghetto. Is "liberated" by the Soviet Army 1945.

In 1956 mass demonstrations against Soviets so Hungarian Communist Party elects a nice guy but Soviet Army army invades and nice guy executed.

1989 reading the writing on the wall Hungary becomes a republic and holds free elections, the first since 1919.

2004 jobs the European Union.

Jeff's plotted Saturday walk on our Komoot app was a big day but we covered some ground, sore big feet at days end,

What is known as Heroes' Square was at the end of a tree lined wide avenue in front of City Gardens.

Tents were setting up for a Triathon ironically enough. There had been talk of the Pride March finishing there same day but more of that shortly.

This is the Museum of Agriculture in the gardens behind the square? Completely OTT. We did not venture in.

Vajdahunyad Castle. Folks bring their dogs there for swimming, fun to watch.

We found a cafe that knew how to make a "flat white". In heaven, did not quite kiss the owner, as so far coffee has been abysmal, other than our own we make with our stovetop Gamminox.

Hidden treasure on the ceilngs of many doorways, just remember to look up

Trams in the centre of roads, cars outside, then cycle lane.  The trams bomb along and keep good time. 

Dachshounds are very popular pets here, long or short haired.

At lunch we realised the Pride March was starting at 2pm with an expected 35,000+ people and transport, access to various would be curtailed. So we high tailed it to the other side of the Danube to Buda. 

Story behind the Pride March was that in reality it was a political rally against the Hungarian government, particularly Prime Minister Viktor Orban. He has been undermining democracy, limiting the Press, rampant corruption etc. Last straw was trying to ban the Pride March, using facial indentification for later arrests etc. When Mrs Boss, Ursula Van der Leyen, President of the European Union was told about Orbans' overreach he was threatened with "dire consequences" for Hungary, read we will pull EU euros. March went ahead, no drama but Orban is a good friend of Putin so watch this space.

On the Buda side we walked up to this monument called Liberation, under repair.

Danube a functional river with constant barge use.

View from Liberation Hill

This is King Stephen, first king of Hungary of 1,000 yrs ago. Converted the entire population of Hungary to Christianity. Made a saint and the Vatican gave permission that his image could hang on cross of the Bascillica rather JC. Unique in the world.

Third biggest parliment building in the world started in 1885 to reflect the "power"of the Austro Hungarian empire, all 691 rooms of it. The government actually makes decisions in a building on Castle Hill that Viktor Orban favours.

King Stepen again.

Matyas church on Castle Hill. Majority of Hungarians are non practicing Catholics. Yellow is the colour of all the taxi and ubers.

Big but falling to pieces

Dog walkers with their charges weaving in and out of abundant fountains to keep cool

New posters over old. Coco Chanel theatre over Lionel Ritchie concert (thought he was dead)

This is an ingenious mobile glass crusher pulled up to a bar. Puts them in one by one.

Authorities pay for cans, plastic bottles so many rough sleepers and otherwise constantly rummaging through bins and lugging sacks around, sad to see.

Budapest is known for its "ruin bars". Run down buildings covered in graffiti. Quite the hip place to go ......

In fact there is tagging, graffiti everywhere on buildings which does tend to detract. Tattoos are popular and body piercing. The "goth look" abounds. Litter prevalent but they try to keep central (tourist) areas reasonably clear.

We went  out to the boonies by bus today (Sunday) to a well known flea market. Not inspiring townscape but folks making the best of it.

A ruin bar

A haphazard affair

One of the old boys at his flea market stall, there were it seemed like a hundred of stalls under cover, who buys all this stuff?

Local tram, notably no tagging or graffiti on buses, trams etc. Police wear side arms and are everywhere, sirens go all the time. You know you are old when some of the police look like chldren!! And sirens are because they can

Our happy bus driver, Russian who then moved to Germany as a truck driver now a bus driver in Budapest. I know my hat is a fashion statement but I keep leaving nice ones on trains, buses......

June 21st - 24th Cote d' Azur/ French Riveria

After a leisurely breakfast at 10am, shock /horror, we left Cagnes-sur-Mer on Saturday morning after making our final goodbyes to our cycling companions. Took a taxi the 16km to our Airbnb in the old area of Nice where we are based until Thursday. What an absolute delight to have a spacious apartment on the 5th floor and be able to unpack for at least 5 days.

View from our balcony towards the tramline behind the trees. Very quiet area with all the essentials nearby.

Sunday was a stooge about the Cours Saleya market by the beach. Usual fabulous array of yummy fruit and vegetables. Also the "best" Boucherie in Nice. Walked along the Promenade des Anglais which was put in by the English in Victorian times to, you know, promenade. There is a lookout called the Castle Hill (only remnants left after Louis X1V destroyed it) with fabulous views over old and new Nice towards Antibes. We scaled it before the heat of the day sapped one out.

So many spices to choose from at Cours Saleya market.

Pottles of mouth watering strawberries.

Moi purchasing baguette.

7km of beach of which there is a mixture of public and private beaches.

View of old Nice in the foreground, no black or slate coloured roofs in this town.

Marina on the east side of the hill. 

Classic Riva boat style made famous by movie stars in the 1950s who holidayed on the French Riveria, usually Cap Ferret.

Retiring to the beach from 3pm seemed a good idea along with many others but very convivial. Nice beach at the old area is covered with small river stones so not the most comfy lying on our Katmandu hiking towels or trying to walk in bare feet but one suffers for a swim in the Med huh! Water is like a tepid bath so nice and very clear.

Umbrellas are at a private beach, the rest of us to the left.

Himself a very happy bunny.

Monday we had booked a day tour of Antibes, Saint Paul de Vence, Monaco, Monte Carlo, Eze etc the French Riveria in one day in a aircon minivan with 6 others. Guide was Ukrainian, a very competent woman regarding information and a skilled driver. There was a family of four from the USA, an eccentric Australian woman and chap from Bristol. 

Antibes is on the west side of Nice and quite low key. Quite liked the feel of it.

Some clever sculptures dotted about, this one reminded me of the sculpture in the Wellington water front.

Many, many boats moor at Antibes because it is cheaper than Nice or Monaco.

Yet another market stumbled upon in Antibes. The size of the raspberries that actually taste like raspberries.

Rampant Oleander and Bouganvillia

Next stop Saint Paul de Vence a cobbled hilltop town known for resident artists. Was too touristy for us but had the old pearl.

Bugatti made from stainless steel.

Oh to be a goldfish when it is 29C

Inside an artist studio 

Very good sculpture.

Moved on to Monaco and Monte Carlo. This is when we learned the American couple with two children loved Disneyland and loved Casino's. They usually holidayed near either or both. He was really excited about hitting the Casino for the allotted time while we were overwhelmed by the excesses of the whole area, ugly just did not cover it. Could not wait to leave the place. We did get to ride over some of the 3km Monaco F1 track in the minivan which is on the waterfront as part of the roading network absolutely jammed with everyday traffic.

Monaco marina

Just a few run abouts

Near the start of the Monaco F1 race.

Another classic Riva boat dwarfed by one of the many behemoths at Monaco.

We learned that 50,000 people come into Monaco by train, scooter etc to work everyday from surrounding area but mostly Nice. Bringing in a car is prohibitive at €75 per day for parking. Monaco sits on 2.08 sq kms with a population 39,000. They are building apartments on every available space such is the demand in this tax haven.

Eze was another hilltop village dating back to the middleages. Touristy with a hilltop Jardin (garden) known for its commanding views. We stopped on the way back to Nice at a lookout over Cap Ferret known as a very chic area with eye watering property prices. The privileged location affords privacy to various celebrities.

Cap Ferret

Today we took the advice of John Crick, one of our cycling companions to visit Menton. 40mins by train very near the Italian border. It was all John had enthused about being very beautiful, peaceful and lovely gardens. Menton is known for "The yellow stairs" so tackled that first then mooched about the very smart shopping area and had a baguette in one of the gardens. Got the train back and went to the beach 5pm.

The Yellow Stairs

Beautiful town of Menton

Basillique Saint Michel

Menton harbour, swimming beach flat and sandy unlike Nice.

Our lunch spot

Tomorrow is our last day in Nice. Intend to hit the beach for our last swim in the Med. Budapest, Prague and Edinburgh not known for 25C sea swims. Will then tidy up our Airbnb and have a meal out at Le Gambetta ( recommended seafood restaurant has been in business 100+years). We have eaten in our apartment all four nights in Nice as we can with our own kitchen.