21st - 24th May Antalya - Cirali

 The bus ride from Goreme to Antalya was quite the journey. Anticipated 7hrs became 9hrs. Not for any particular reason, just a milk run with multiple stops. Arrival at the Antalya Otogar we then searched for a local bus into the old city centre. Grateful for feeling safe in Turkey because once off the local bus we walk through not the most salubrious alley ways to find the hotel. We were ravenous after only snacks since Goreme so headed out into the Friday night old city in seach of something edible. The Luna Garden was the best meal we have had thus far, a seven vegetable salad bowl!! 

Near our hotel these chaps clear out the dumpster of cardboard, anything they can resell.

Next morning, Friday, after unable to find a bus back to the Otogar due to Friday prayers we got a taxi, NZD$10 as against 50c for the bus. Bati Antalya bus company does the coastal route to Fethiye picking up and dropping off on the way. The bus driver gets phone calls as we are bombing along, draws into a siding, someone will give a parcel/ letter,  folded Turkish Lira, a cash society. At a stop people will harangue him for not picking them up even though the bus is full. By the time we got to the Cirali junction there were 6 people standing in the aisle although the sign inside the bus states categorically 31 seated, no-one standing. All very entertaining.

Cirali is a very small coastal village with the best beach in Turkey so claimed. Feels very Pacific Island with lush vegetation, houses dotted amongst orchards. They grow citrus, avocados, pomegrante etc. Is very, very quiet. We have what they call a bungalow, to us a motel room, spacious in a citrus orchard. Only noise is roosters crowing and the call to prayer from the mosque 200mtrs behind us. First call 5.10am so it does wake you but able to nod off again whereas everywhere else so far it has been 4am-ish.  Next week is Eid al Adha for a public holiday week, being the Feast of Sacrifice, on the Muslim calendar. Which  means this area will be jammed but for us now hardly a soul about and after the last three weeks travelling a welcome respite.8

Quite  dramatic backdrop. A pebbly beach.

Hard to believe all these loungers are full in the summer season.

Jeff could not wait to get into the Mediterranean again. Water temp maybe 20C.

One of the two reasons you come to Cirali is the ancient ruins of Olympos. What had been a Roman port city at the mouth of a deep ravine at the southern end of Cirali beach. Settled by the Lycians from around 15th century BC before being assimilated into the Roman Empire 43 AD.  Abandoned, it was taken on in the 5th century by Byzantines until they also abandoned it. Choke full of churches, house ruins and many tombs. 

Walk to the ruins. Note the remains of the lookout towers at right.

Remains of a lions head, upside down, from one of the tombs

Remains of the temple gate honouring Marcus Aurelius. The facade has fallen off. The gateway opening at 6m high. How did they get them erected in 170AD?

An important chaps tomb remains. Like everywhere when one civilastion moves on the next civilisation reuse the materials at hand. Not unsual to see parts of a tomb used in a house or for roading. Needs must. Tomb raiders also punched holes in the sarcophogus (tombs) looking for treasure.

The other reason to visit Cirali is the Mt Chimaera eternal flames. A 4km walk from where we are staying to the bottom of the mountain then maybe 1300mtr up to the saddle. After 1000mtr you begin to pass flames flickering out of the rock cracks/ openings as you continue climbing. Of course steeped in mythology being the monster of Chimaera; three formed beast: parts being lion, goat, python as described by Homer.

The constantly burning fires are from methane and hydrogen gases escaping.

Monster of Chimaera

Lots of folks arrive on dusk to see flames at their best but I did not want to be staggering about rocky hillsides in the dark, headlight notwithstanding.

And yes folks toast marshmallows over the flames.

The saddle view looking towards Cirali

After yesterdays activity we decided on a slow morning then the beach for the afternoon. If you spent two hours sun bathing without sunblock at the beach in NZ you would be fried whereas around the Mediterranean you barely notice, way less ultraviolet due to the thicker atmospheric filter and angle of the sun.  A lot more folks about today for the start of the holiday.

Citrus orchard at Mercan Bungalow - our Cirali oasis

Our bungalow with deck and important washing line.

An idyllic scene motoring in the turquoise blue Turkish Mediterranean.

Tomorrow we leave Cirali for Fethiye by shuttle and bus. Planning a Fethiye Bay boating trip on one of the days there.