June 4th - June 6th Thun to Wllisau

Left Thun and pretty soon hit a road detour that had us unsure of where we were actually going as the GPX files were not updated. Already tricky on unfamilar roads, being on the right hand side of the road and in a different language. Muddled along and got back on track but missed 30km somewhere due to detour? Kept our sense of humour.

No idea...

We cycled through lush pastures after climbing up what they call the 'Kings stairs'. A good view of Lake Thun and alpine faces. We see the occassional fox in the fields and many large birds called kites, with their prominent forked tail and mewing call. Crows attack them regularly. We had our lunch on the side of the road, which seems to becoming the norm. The Herz 99 route stays off main roads and rolls up and down the sides of the valleys. Small towns often in the bottom which means a haul back out again.

Another exciting lunch spot

We arrived at Langnau early, again beating the rain. Very helpful staff and so grateful they would do a load of laundry for us. We booked dinner at their restaurant which was delicious; pea soup with coriander and coconut cream. Locals were playing cards, and the older lady wait staff had the Swiss German patter keeping everyone happy. Another family owned hotel, 18 rooms only, and the building is 200yrs old and very comfortable. Ice hockey is the main winter event in Langnau and hikers/bikers for the summer.

Amazing roofline on our Langnau hotel. Seems to be the style on all the farmhouses we pass also. Adapted for snow to not damage spouting or dump on anyone below.

It was really cold again next morning for our cycle to Burgdorf. We should have brought our icebreaker balaclavas with us. 10C rise to 13C midday and even though you keep warm plugging up the hills absolutely glacial along the  tops.

Many of the farm houses have names and dates prominent. We worked out this was the birth dates and names of children who live there.

Also every house needs a snow plough in the alpine area.

Over the last few days we wondered how all these small farms - 25ha and maybe 30 dairy cows are economic. Especially when they are fed indoors 7 months of the year. Granted someone probably may have an off farm income but?  Well in fact the agricultural sector is heavily subsided and protected by the Swiss government. 

Border protection by restricting imports, high tariffs, subsidising crops, cultural landscape protection ( so it stays pretty)  for Switzerland, animal welfare payments; you name it. From what we can work out something like CHF 87,000/ NZD$173,000 per each little farm is paid out. This is what NZ battles against when we export our low input non subsidised dairy products. Switzerlands cost of production is very high with all the grass harvesting to be then feed out all winter, mountains of fertiliser, fuel use etc. The Swiss govt subsidises billions of francs, 50% of the Agri sector. Everwhere you look it is Bio, Enviro, Natural...woke words - how can it be true?

Some Belted Galloway cattle in the distance although most cows are Holstein or Swiss Brown. Another small hillock to get over. Wearing merino long sleeve.

Many mixed stands of trees. Not too much wildlife - deer, small animals. We saw one squirrel. No possums on the road.

Town of Burgdorf is dominated by the 800yr castle. There is a youth hostel in it which we are staying in. Did have to cycle up a steep cobblestone access  of course!!

Burgdorf castle ....now youth hostel and wedding venue.

View from our bedroom window in the castle.

Castle entrance

Many of the buildings in the town are decorated

Standard transport in the small towns, car use frowned upon unless a 'silent assassin' otherwise known as an electric car. We detest how they creep up behind you.

A cool start again in the morning as we set out for Willisau. Rolling lanscape of the Emmental. There was a village dedicted to all things emmental cheese. Cabinets of different aged cheese, all sorts of dried meats and yogurts, ricottas, quark etc. - dairy heaven. Was worth a coffee stop.  Did not have to have our picnic lunch on the roadside today, a nice park bench at Madiswil train station. Sun came out and warmed up a bit so grateful for that.

This is a holstein cow with bell I am chatting to.  You hear the bells clanging away all the time in the lowlands and alps.  Must drive them mad. Goats and sheep also have them.

Holstein are big, heavy cows producing lots of milk which is what they are paid for in Switzerland. Too heavy to be outside in winter conditions whereas our Friesians are hardy, compact and produce milk with higher fat content.

These are two versions of slurry spreaders which causes the distinct smell everwhere and makes the grass so green.

We have not seen very many people when cycling, the occassional farmer crossing his yard as we cycle through, a dog walker but really just the two of us. Poor Jeff is really missing out, language a barrier of course. After we arrived in Willisau today did the usual grocery run to supplement our breakfast and lunch supplies. Called into a cafe up the historic main street. Chatted to a lovely couple in their seventies who come into the bigger town from their tiny village. Both met through flying small planes. He had been a GP but deaf as a post so conversation a bit onesided but seem to enjoy chatting with two kiwis.

Willisau main street

Our hotel, we are on the top floor. Stairs are hard work after cycling.

Many decorative buldings in the town.

Clock towers at each end of the main street plus Catholic church bells reminding folks of their Sunday obligations. Ear plugs will be working hard tonight.

Window display, classic.