Girona 4th - 7th June

 Quite a long day on trains getting from San Sebastian to Girona, our last town in Spain. It is in the Catalonia region of Spain known for the walkable walled old quarter, medieval architecture and Roman remains. Has a lovely treescape avenue with a river crossed by various interesting bridges. Some very large carp can be seen in the river and seemingly the spanish version of a beaver but yet to see one.

Steps everywhere, no wonder they live to a grand old age generally.

The Basilica that was built on top on Roman, Muslim places of worship. The norm everywhere we have been. River level pretty low but does get up to the bottom of the walkway if it has a mind to.

Pays to look up as well as out/across when taking in  new town. This was in the Gateway on the old Roman road.

Sandstone the "go to" building material, all shapes.

We went on a history walking tour with a couple from India, Mum and son from the USA. Their interest was the Game of Throne sights in Girona. Tour guide tried her best to stay on message but if we could have lost the Americans would have been better.

The guide told us that Girona has an unmet demand for rental properties. They pay 600 euros per month for a basic one bedroom if they can find one. Minimum wage is 1200 euros per month. Catalonia has the highest incidence of squatters in properties which also limits properties for rent. If you cannot get the squatters out within 48hrs of taking over your property the only option is court action which takes months and hundreds of euros. Some resort to "squatter removal companies" read thugs. Guide also told us that Air BnB was limited to 15% in Girona by the council. Because so many Europeans and Brits own second houses in Spain this gives license to squatters and limits rentals for Catalonians.

We found a vegetarian restuarant which reminded us of Takaka and the Potpourri in Dunedin. Very alternative but a change from Basque, Catalonia fare.  We noticed the Nepalese hats over the lights and asked about them. Turns out the chef was from Kathmandu and he was delighted to talk to us as we had hiked in the East and West of Nepal but not the "touristic" area. He had left Nepal for London to study then flipped to cooking but as one does the London winters chased him to Northern Spain.

Nirman from Nepal, chef at El Pati. Artichoke with blue cheese and spinach cannelloni. Delicious.

Next day was forecast to be 33C in Girona so a trip to the beach was in order. Hopped on a bus at the Estacion and the E3 Express took us to Palamos on the Costa Brava for the La Platja Gran, a 600m long beach. Yellow very fine gravel and temp only 26C with a breeze, perfect. The Mediterranean sea was fresh we would have to say, not summer warm yet, but we were happy. Lay about for a few hours then got the bus back which took about 1.5hrs. The Palamos town itself was nothing to see, sort of shabby. There are dozens of beaches on the Costa Brava coast so not doubt some Gold Coast contenders.

Washing togs etc. on return. Have to dodge the cigarette ash from the slob who hangs over the railing in the apartment above flicking it out the place.

Spotted on our way back from dinner the elusive Spanish beaver. It is actually a Coypu, herbivorous mammal from South America.

Final day in Spain, Friday, a hike was decided upon. Was called the Castillo de Sant Miguel loop from Disseminat de Sant Daniel. Starting from our accommodation a 14km hike at a reasonable 27C.

We use the Komoot app which is brilliant giving a range of hikes in any area with idiot proof directions, waypoints and notable sights.

Story of the flies posters  throughout Girona is that in 1808 the French ransacked a tomb in the church hoping for riches only to be swarmed by flies and many soldiers died through being bitten by them.

Elevated tomb in front of said church

Cobblestone paths can be very intricate.

View of the Basilica near the start of the hike.

Wee sad face as we passed his house sitting in the shade bored rigid.

The high point we hiked to El Castell de Sant Miguel which gave panoramic views over the countryside surrounding Girona.

The history of the fortification thought to have begun in 1024 and being occupied in the 15th century. Went through various uses more lately telegraph then communication tower.

Thank goodness for google translate lens app to fill in the minutiae.

Girona out in the distance. A bit of haze about; heat, dust. The forested area is a mix of broadleaf, cork oak.

Little tracks everywhere. Years ago this area was farmed in little terraced plots but subsistence living a best so the govt took it over when folks moved on and let it revert.

A mural enroute showing pictorially the change in land use from the left 1900, 1950 then 2000.

Another view of the Basilica.

A cold beer was in order on completion of the hike and happy to watch folks ambling around. This is 3pm and folks just finishing lunch on the left.

Hard to believe we have been in Spain a month and tomorrow we crossed the border to France to begin our cycle tour. We have really enjoyed Spain for all it's diversity, history, architecture and culture. Accommodation, bar one place, have been good, transport options superb and food choices depends on how hard you look. Staying with our daily budget which is a relief when plotting these sort of adventures from afar. We are looking foward to a quieter population in France and the cycling adventure in Provence.

Final word goes to the smallest " dog" we have seen.

San Sebastion - Bilboa 1st June - 3rd June

 

We had planned to spend three nights in San Sebastian arriving on the Saturday afternoon. Then having become wise regarding Sunday's in Spain the next day in Bilbao. Worked very well. Such a change in temperatures in the north of Spain, otherwise known as Basque country. They speak/write an entirely different Spanish, which my beginners Spanish did not cope with. Use lots of 't,z,x' in their words, looked almost Russian. Like the Catalonians they want to be seperate from the rest of Spain and very passionate about independence.

San Sebastian is a resort town in the Bay of Biscay. Cobblestone streets, verdant treescapes and very nice shops, smartly dressed population. Was very beautiful and restful. 

We were very lucky to stumble upon a fab restuarant called "Chutney Gastrobar" run by a couple of guys with maybe 8/10 tables? Always booked solid but we turned up at 7.20pm and they were keen to host two kiwis as long as we perched at the bar and gone by 8.30pm. Not a problem. We both struggle with waiting for dinner till 9pm as is the norm here. Exceptional food, small, tasty. The two hosts cooking in front of us, talking sixty to the dozen, while welcoming each local guest like old friends.  Funnily enough we saw the two hosts in the town on the Monday shopping and lots of laughter about our time in Bilbao.

So Sunday as planned got the bus from San Sebastian to Bilbao, only took 1.5 hours for 7 euros each, a bargain on super slick Alsa buses. Walked directly to the famous Guggenheim Museum. 

This puppy is covered in flowers, just so clever, at the main entrance.

Guggenheim is an amazing build, 33,000 titanium sheets, glass, steel at every angle possible. Designed by Frank Gehry opened 1997.

The museum houses modern, contemporary art. Think Pop Culture and Expressionism. You either like, admire it or you do not. 

A black canvas with bottom left corner "unpainted".

Yes scrap metal installation with 4 paragraphs on what it all meant.

A clever piece from squashed bottle tops and various other waste products held together with copper wire and the rising sea telling us the end is nigh.

A collapsed pot plant made from canvas. Must have taken hours.

A nod to Andy Warhol and his followers.

Curved 25ml plate steel installation by Jeff Kroons which is also a maze.

Three floors maybe 2.5hrs later we came upon the final expressionist art piece. I burst into laughter and sat down beside a German couple who were also bemused.

We discussed how the worlds problems were supposedly caused by us baby boomers, who are also colonialists and racists. He said "and of course us Germans are Nazis also!!! All this while looking at the below installation. This is the emperors new clothes in art form.

I kid you not, Pinocchio face down in a tub of water and below it's title.

Oh and the strategically placed ladders with "war and peace" about how the artist was feeling, expressing with this installation.

Went for a stroll around the township of Bilbao, quite a bit going on for a Sunday really. Very eclectic mix of buildings.

Amazing picture made from coloured sawdust in front of the Cathedral.

Plants, flower, vinyl records and a book market.

Bilbao council chambers

Most of the streets are pedestrian only other than early morning deliveries.

This was the Centro train estacion but since moved to another part of the city.

In the immigrant part of the city, mostly from Senegal, Mali, Guinea etc. we came across a barbers come dreadlocks shop. Jeff's hair was getting wild so through hand signals, charades the chap worked out what was needed. Probably the only silver fox hair the barber had ever cut and along with the three young guys lounging about playing music "you tube " clips was very entertaining. The women doing dreadlocks was amazing to watch, patience personified.

Sayo the barber and a very trimmed Jeff. They do a great job with no hair from any part of the head escaping their attention - moustache, eyebrows, ears, nose. We had a similar experience in Tunisa, always memorable and fun.

We had mentioned the predominance of dachshunds, both short haired and long haired, in Spain. Just love this wee chap - slightly nervous waiting for dad outside a shop.

Back in San Sebastian we had a full day mooching about. Was very overcast and only 15C, a shock after all the late 20Cs etc. Certainly not conducive to spending the day on the gorgeous beach. We did the walk up to the old fortress remains, along the river and spent some time chatting to an Aussie couple who asked our opinion on which route to drive to Porto, Portugal. Around the coast as agreed. 

One of the beaches at San Sebastian. There is a funicular to the right that takes to a historic castle.

The main beach San Sebastian called La Concha.

Several entrances through remains of the town wall

Storks nest in any available spot. This one with chicks. They are also endemic in Morocco.