Girona 4th - 7th June

 Quite a long day on trains getting from San Sebastian to Girona, our last town in Spain. It is in the Catalonia region of Spain known for the walkable walled old quarter, medieval architecture and Roman remains. Has a lovely treescape avenue with a river crossed by various interesting bridges. Some very large carp can be seen in the river and seemingly the spanish version of a beaver but yet to see one.

Steps everywhere, no wonder they live to a grand old age generally.

The Basilica that was built on top on Roman, Muslim places of worship. The norm everywhere we have been. River level pretty low but does get up to the bottom of the walkway if it has a mind to.

Pays to look up as well as out/across when taking in  new town. This was in the Gateway on the old Roman road.

Sandstone the "go to" building material, all shapes.

We went on a history walking tour with a couple from India, Mum and son from the USA. Their interest was the Game of Throne sights in Girona. Tour guide tried her best to stay on message but if we could have lost the Americans would have been better.

The guide told us that Girona has an unmet demand for rental properties. They pay 600 euros per month for a basic one bedroom if they can find one. Minimum wage is 1200 euros per month. Catalonia has the highest incidence of squatters in properties which also limits properties for rent. If you cannot get the squatters out within 48hrs of taking over your property the only option is court action which takes months and hundreds of euros. Some resort to "squatter removal companies" read thugs. Guide also told us that Air BnB was limited to 15% in Girona by the council. Because so many Europeans and Brits own second houses in Spain this gives license to squatters and limits rentals for Catalonians.

We found a vegetarian restuarant which reminded us of Takaka and the Potpourri in Dunedin. Very alternative but a change from Basque, Catalonia fare.  We noticed the Nepalese hats over the lights and asked about them. Turns out the chef was from Kathmandu and he was delighted to talk to us as we had hiked in the East and West of Nepal but not the "touristic" area. He had left Nepal for London to study then flipped to cooking but as one does the London winters chased him to Northern Spain.

Nirman from Nepal, chef at El Pati. Artichoke with blue cheese and spinach cannelloni. Delicious.

Next day was forecast to be 33C in Girona so a trip to the beach was in order. Hopped on a bus at the Estacion and the E3 Express took us to Palamos on the Costa Brava for the La Platja Gran, a 600m long beach. Yellow very fine gravel and temp only 26C with a breeze, perfect. The Mediterranean sea was fresh we would have to say, not summer warm yet, but we were happy. Lay about for a few hours then got the bus back which took about 1.5hrs. The Palamos town itself was nothing to see, sort of shabby. There are dozens of beaches on the Costa Brava coast so not doubt some Gold Coast contenders.

Washing togs etc. on return. Have to dodge the cigarette ash from the slob who hangs over the railing in the apartment above flicking it out the place.

Spotted on our way back from dinner the elusive Spanish beaver. It is actually a Coypu, herbivorous mammal from South America.

Final day in Spain, Friday, a hike was decided upon. Was called the Castillo de Sant Miguel loop from Disseminat de Sant Daniel. Starting from our accommodation a 14km hike at a reasonable 27C.

We use the Komoot app which is brilliant giving a range of hikes in any area with idiot proof directions, waypoints and notable sights.

Story of the flies posters  throughout Girona is that in 1808 the French ransacked a tomb in the church hoping for riches only to be swarmed by flies and many soldiers died through being bitten by them.

Elevated tomb in front of said church

Cobblestone paths can be very intricate.

View of the Basilica near the start of the hike.

Wee sad face as we passed his house sitting in the shade bored rigid.

The high point we hiked to El Castell de Sant Miguel which gave panoramic views over the countryside surrounding Girona.

The history of the fortification thought to have begun in 1024 and being occupied in the 15th century. Went through various uses more lately telegraph then communication tower.

Thank goodness for google translate lens app to fill in the minutiae.

Girona out in the distance. A bit of haze about; heat, dust. The forested area is a mix of broadleaf, cork oak.

Little tracks everywhere. Years ago this area was farmed in little terraced plots but subsistence living a best so the govt took it over when folks moved on and let it revert.

A mural enroute showing pictorially the change in land use from the left 1900, 1950 then 2000.

Another view of the Basilica.

A cold beer was in order on completion of the hike and happy to watch folks ambling around. This is 3pm and folks just finishing lunch on the left.

Hard to believe we have been in Spain a month and tomorrow we crossed the border to France to begin our cycle tour. We have really enjoyed Spain for all it's diversity, history, architecture and culture. Accommodation, bar one place, have been good, transport options superb and food choices depends on how hard you look. Staying with our daily budget which is a relief when plotting these sort of adventures from afar. We are looking foward to a quieter population in France and the cycling adventure in Provence.

Final word goes to the smallest " dog" we have seen.