France - Arles, Avignon, Apt and Sault 8th - 14th June

 

Our accommodation in Arles. 

We arrived in Arles Saturday afternoon from where our 7 night 6 day cycle tour starts in Provence, France. Meet the other cyclists at 7pm for an evening meal and the briefing by one of the three tour leaders. There will be two vans; one for catered smoko and lunches, another carrying kit and for any issues with cycles, people. Third tour guide is tail end charlie on a bike. Breakfast always at 7.30am and away for the days ride by 9am with each cyclist having downloaded GPX files on whatever mapping device being used on the bike. Tea stops are plotted and which ever tour leader was on the catering van turned out brews/ picnic lunches at a plotted point.

On three days there were shorter ride options say 50km rather than standard 90-100km. Group of cyclists ranged in age from 30's to 70's. Couple old boys had electric bikes, the rest lung and leg models of every iteration.

Sunday first day out saw us cycling to Avignon from Arles via hill top town of Les Baux de Provence, past the remains of a 1st century Roman aquaduct and through some of the Parc Naturel Regional des Alphilles. Countryside filled with orchards, various crops and classic French farmhouses. Got to Avignon feeling pretty chipper after not having riden for 5 weeks while we had been in Spain. In Avignon for two nights.

The Rhone river which runs through Avignon

Looking back over the bridge on the Rhone to Avignon city which still has part of the historic walls.

Classic ornate buildings throughout Avignon

Would have to note at first glance France is shabbier than Spain. Whereas Spain's streets are very clean and buildings well kept thus far Arles, Avignon are not. Quite run down in fact.

Next day we headed out from Avignon for 125km loop ride through orchards ladden with apricots and cherries, vineyards of the Cote du Rhone to the village of Chateaunef du Pape, hilly terrain with pine woodlands the back to Avignon. Jeff and I had teamed up with a couple from Ross on Wye, Fiona and Guy so the marathon windy 125km ride was very chatty. 

Following day, Tuesday,  we left Avignon for Apt, again two nights. This ride was 85km through small towns with spectacular scenery of limestone gorges, villages of Gordes, Roussillon and Venasque.

Perfect weather 25C.

Lavender fields at every turn. Must say we did not really appreciate the range of crops grown here; hectares of cereals - rice, lucerne, stone/pip fruit of every kind, horticultural crops galore, cork oaks, olives but very little livestock.

Village of Venasque.

Not looking too bad after uphill for lunch.

A day off for our tour guide on lunch detail. Had it in this restaurant with views over the valley.

Jeff's favourite type of shop but sadly closed for lunch 1pm to 4pm as they do.

History of the village, in French of course. Google translate had thrown a hissy fit so could not capture in English.

Quaint little shops in the village but we were pretty intent on eating.

This is the hilltop village of Gordes day three on our way to Apt. Like most of these villages we passed through they were very busy with tourists. Actually quite terrifying with people ambling about, drivers doing  mad manoeuvres. Needed be constantly swivel headed while also dealing with cobblestones uphill on a bike.

Wednesday we undertook what was called the Luberon loop from Apt for 96km with some testing climbs. Scenery again many small hamlets, villages and dramatic limestone gorges. I would be lying if I said we were not feeling a bit sore by this stage but mostly saddle sore. I had fallen off a couple of times through chain lock ups or doing dumb things but only a gashed knee and bruised elbow. Jeff had only fallen once but nether regions uncomfortable.

This is one of the brew/tea stops Fernando had set up, you do not want for anything.

Does the same mid afternoon.

Roads are pretty good considering the terrain. The squiggles are where they have filled up cracks.

Dinner in Apt was put on by one of the hotels, the French version of Fawlty Towers. The owner was as mad as a brush and the establishment eccentric to say the least, rambling, quirky and very random. Was an absolute laugh and we all enjoyed not having to find a restaurant in Apt after a long day.

Day 5, Thursday, we left Apt cycling towards Sault only 82km ( tongue firmly in cheek) but with 1758m to climb up through the Gorge du Nesque. Passed woodlands, Saturnin les Apt and views of Mont Ventoux which we do tomorrow. An amazing ride and we felt privileged to be able to to it.

The famous Mont Ventoux in the distance awaiting us.

You have got to want to live there.

With Fiona and Guy from Ross on Wye , good company. Fiona speaks multiple languages, perseverance personified whereas Guy is so laid back to be horizontal. He is in the military and jollied us along as necessary.

Jeff looking up through the Gorge du Nesque, see the road line to the centre left.

We rode up the line you can see on the left, Mont Ventoux in the background.

Yes it is a road.

So that day was epic. Hotel in Sault was a welcome sight. Again small town on a hilltop with a central Plaza where everything from a nougat shop to patisseries, Lavender, art shops. We purchased a couple of bottles of wine, have no idea what it was as do not read French but at 5 euros each would have to be ok?. We wandered down to this and found a pizza mobile van overlooking the valley. Armed with our mystery wines we had a fabulous pizza and reviewed day with Fiona and Guy.

And so to the final riding day, Friday, from Sault UP to Mont Ventoux summit, 26km then the same back down. Average slope up is 7.5% with a gut busting 13% on the steepest part. Elevation gain of 1600m. Jeff and I were slightly nervous but very determined to complete even though our bodies were telling us we had ridden approx 500km in the previous 5 days uphill and down dale. Our hire bikes are tanks at 17.5kg steel frames compared to the carbon fibre slick machines around us but Kiwis are tough!!?

This mountain is a stage in the Tour de France and the guns do it in under an hour. We just wanted to complete without mishap especially going back down on the gradient. 

This is the from Chalet Reynard once out of the forested section. Grateful for no sun and average wind.

You are such a long way up from the valley floor.

Yes an absolute gut buster. We were determined not to get down to our last low range gear, we just ground, spun on giving each other encouragement between breathes.

The champions, along with many others. We were elated at 70yrs, 64yrs to be able to complete the climb in 2.49hrs and still be smiling. Great team work. In the immortal words of Sir Ed, "We knocked the bastard off".

There were quite a few cycling teams from France, Germany bunch riding. Was 7C only at the top so did not muck around. Although the decent only took 1.03hr we were frozen so much so could not feel my hands and got the shakes.

The famous, infamous Mont Ventoux memorial/ weather station.

That night one of the local restaurants catered dinner for the Peak Tour team. Every rider had managed the ascent and return with no mishaps. The three tour guides were relieved and we really appreciated their support and knowledge. Fernando chef extraordinaire, James bike repair expertise and overalll team leader and Jonathon riding tips. Great meal and we were all in fine spirits. Collapsed into bed ready to get the bus early morning onto Nimes. Seems that we were one of the few tour groups in which all members summited.