Sewell Travels: Cuenca and Zaragoza 27th

Way back in Sept/Oct when we began plotting this grand tour Cuenca came on the radar due to Noheda village mosaics being nearby. We were keen to see them. The town Cuenca still retains some of the historic walls from Moorish times, very yes very steep cobblestone streets with houses impossibly perched on the limestone spurs. We arrived on the train from Toledo, a bus then took us up the hill depositing us in the Plaza just up from our accommodation.

Plaza Mayor.

We were in one of the apartments half way down, fourth floor. No ascendo (lift) so a narrow staircase like a turret. Backpacks come into their own as manoeuvring a suitcase would have been a struggle.

Got set up then legged down the hill to find a supermercardo. Found a wee bar for a sandwich as mid afternoon then hauled ourselves back up to the apartment with enough supplies for a couple of days.

Note how clear the water is, this is in a town of 55,000 both old and new towns.

Old town to the foreground.

Found the Turismo in the Plaza, once open again at 4pm. Spain shuts for lunch at least two hours, anytime between 12.30 to 5pm. To our dismay Noheda mosaics were a no go as they only open three days at the end of the week for individual tourists. We tried private guides but no interest so not to be. Always a plan B or C so regrouped. Went for a hike up to the town lookouts and general snooping about.

Like Rio de Janeiro there is a statue of Jesus Christ on a hilltop looking over Cuenca and many other religious monuments/relics.

A couple of rivers run through and around so next day our hiking app shows possibilities for a hike. Was a haul to start with but then followed the valley behind Cuenca and looped back. Lovely herbal ley vegetation again in addition to lots of poppies.

We did GR66 and GR 11 no idea what GR stands for, maybe grade?

Up and down, up and down.

Cuenca also known for its hanging houses. Whether on the edge or not it all looked precipitous to us.

Left Cuenca after a couple of days getting the train to Madrid and then on to Zaragoza. We were dragging ourselves around at this point both harbouring stonking head colds. Not unexpected given the bed hopping, crowds and less than average sleep. Nonetheless the show goes on.

Zaragoza in the Aragon region in the north east of Spain is known for Nuestra Senora de Pilar Basilica, the Aljafera Palace, the Goya Museum and lets not forget Catherine of Aragon, who was Henry V111 first wife who managed to keep her head. She did die of consumption though after Henry had her banished to some damp, drafty castle but I digress.

It is quite a big city, 700,000 pp, with the automotive industry , Opel, employing many. Germany uses cheaper Spanish labour for production at this stage.

First impressions was the sheer size of some of the buildings and lots of construction going on. Bit of a mission initially getting off the city bus to where we believed our apartment to be only to find the street under construction. Foggy with head colds did not help but we kept our sense of humour.

Looking out of our apartment window. Does mean no street traffic noise. Both sides of the street screened while chaps work in the middle.

As it was later in the afternoon, 35C, by then we went out to Aljaferia Palace as they advised mornings the mosque maybe closed. It is an Islamic castle from the 11th century which was a residence of Saudi Kings. Then taken over by the various Christian/Catholic kings, became a military base then battleground of the war of independence in 1808 between Spain and France. Present day it is the parliament of Aragon.

Quite a lot of restoration work gas gone on over the centuries.

There were thousands of these ceiling panels. Artistry never to be seen again.

Next day we hit the Basilica and Cathedral in the morning. Again the opulence was staggering. The Basilica is on one side of the Plaza de Pilar. A cavernous Catholic site where supposedly the Virgin Mary appeared to James the Apostle on a pilar which has been revered ever since.

Mass is on every hour and we counted at least a dozen ornate confession boxes in hot demand by older folks. There were many naves off to each side filled with alabaster tombs, paintings, gold and silver. Compared to other towns the church only begrudgingly allowed photos and there was nothing like the hoards of tourists as Zaragoza is not a hot destination like Madrid or Barcelona. Although Spain is noted as having 85% population as Catholic less than 15% actually attend church.

The town has several bridges over the Erbo River with the usual 1st century Roman Bridge reconstructed in the Gothic style and further renovated to today's requirement.

Gets hot working on a hydralift here so needs must, the trusty sun umbrella.

The bakery, a baguette for just over a euro and pana chocolate for not much more.

Some serious dressmaking, sewing goes on here. Incredible range of colour and fabrics.

The fresh market, we like looking at all the different types of fish here and the pricing. The chaps are so quick on the knife fulfilling orders.

On the left silverbeet and right borage. Yes borage, what you and I would use the flowers for salads or ice cubes the Spanish cook up the stalks with potatoes.

In the afternoon we went to the Goya Museum, artist famous for print making, engravings and romantic old master painting. Some of his prints reflected pretty dark times in Spanish history, almost macabre. The disasters of war etc but showed the strength of his feelings. Well worth the opportunity to visit.

Zaragoza has got a very large well known tapas area in the old town called El Tubo. We had booked a tapas tour as it cuts to the chase to find the most interesting and best.

Met the guide 6pm at the Cesar Augusto statue in a plaza along with another couple, escapees from the USA to Mexico. We endeavoured to keep a straight face as they advised us they are both teetotal, vegetarian and he was barely mobile. Felt sorry for the guide. Notwithstanding it was really interesting and fun.

One of the older tapa bar Bodegas Almau since 1870. Sweet anchovy a specialty.

Next was El Champo which has only one tapa, triple stack of mushroom topped with one prawn and drowned in pesto garlic.

At each stop there was the opportunity to try Spanish wine for the Sewells. Reds are ok but Marlborough Sauv Blanc has ruined our palate for European whites.

The escapees from Mexico and I on our way to Montal, opened in 1919, which favoured tapa is artichokes stuffed with goats cheese, Jeffs favourite. Then to El Calamar Bravo for miniature calamari sandwiches.

Last stop was an ancient pasteleria called Fantoba Hermanos, established 1854. Sweets heaven, just so beautiful looking. Hens were a favoured decoration as homage to meringues.

Through the generations.

Our guide Jorge and Kim of Mexico trying a chocolate jelly.

Even though we probably only had three or four mouthful of various tapas we did not feel inclined for dinner by 9.30pm so content to end back to the apartment.

So final day in Zaragoza thought we would check out a 25ha site that had been where the Expo Zaragoza 2008 had been held. Billed as a showcase for water and sustainable development. Must have cost billions to set up for the 3 months it was on and then the theory was this futuristic place would become a the business hub, shopping and housing area for Zaragoza. Huge buildings, out there in style and now in realityhu a ghost town!!. Empty save two kiwis and the odd river jogger. It was really eery and sad. The sheer waste was gobsmacking.