Took the train from Cordoba to Madrid where we had the change for Toledo. Atochas station in Madrid is the hub for high speed trains in the south and as you would expect very large but actually easy to negotiate.
Zips along at 266kph. Onboard information screen.
Toledo is an old city on a hilltop with medieval monuments in the old walled city. We had decided to base ourselves there rather than Madrid due to the town size, only 85,000 as against Madrid 3.5 million. One of the novelties of Toledo is that it has "mechanical stairs" so called that takes one from the bottom of the hill up through a gap in the medieval wall into the old city. The lift is in six sections of 36mtrs. Idea 25yrs ago was to build a monster carpark at the bottom of the town to relieve car congestion in the old town, which has the usual narrow cobbled streets. To be honest seeing some of the folks waddling about they would never make the hill unaided.
This is the Bisagra Gate built in the 10th century with city wall to the right.
Our accommodation was at the bottom of the hill in a run down neighbourhood but the apartment was fine and so much quieter than Granada.
Yes not applealing but around the corner renovated or "reformed" housing. Jeff always intrigued by the amount of vegetation growing on the roofs but then it barely rains. Water for most of this part of Spain comes from artesian wells, we understand there are huge volumes under the ground. The Targas River provides agricultural irrigation.
Had a good walk about the town starting out early in the morning to beat the droves of tourists that start arriving from 10am. Leaders have flags or umbrellas with their flock ambling behind. Another cathedral which was amazing. Frescoes with the early morning light were something else.
The 12 apostles and the Last Supper.
This cathedral is like others we have seen thus far, Initially a Muslim mosque which was destroyed in the 11th century and a gothic Christian church constructed in the 12th century. The various religions/civilisations Romans, Visigoths, Muslim and then Christians all cannibalised each other buildings to build their visions.
Here is a mix of three.
Toledo is well known for metal works. Many of the tourist shops will sell you a full set of armour and matching sword, dagger. Impeccable craftmanship.
Streets are kept very clean by many workers in all the places we have been to other than the scourge of cigarette butts. At least 20% population smokes, whereas NZ down to 6% I think.
Tagus river flows around three sides of Toledo. The longest river on the Iberian Peninsular at 1,000 km and empties at Lisbon, Portugal. We had intended to do a walk on some of it but afternoon temp of 31C we flagged it.
So next day 8am we set out for Madrid. A 45min bus ride from Toledo at 6 euros each. Once into Plaza Eliptica in the south of the city we took 2 metros, 6 euros for the day, into central Madrid. Popped up at Plaza Calleo to start a walking tour of Madrid history. Gave us an insight into why Madrid had taken over from Toledo as the capital, why it is such a liberal (LGBT) city and the general feel of the place. We found it was very well looked after with 200yr+ buildings very smartly kept, wide boulevards, many parks, not too crowded and actually cooler than we expected, seemingly they get " a lot of wind".
Famous buildings are the Royal Palace, Cathedral, Plaza Mayor and a multitude of museums and art galleries. We gave the sights a far go and were grateful to sit back in the returning bus at 6pm.
Immigrants trying to earn a living selling sun glasses, hand bags in the Plaza. They lug around these huge sacks from place to place as they get moved on from the Policia, who are armed.
Plaza Mayor is a huge publuc space from 1580 by Phillip 111, gentleman on the horse.
Said Policia that you would not want to trifle with. We have been constantly amazed at how many Policia there are everywhere we go; in cars, walking, on horses. They do the usual roles, aggressively it is said. They also undertake intelligence gathering. We have been surprised how when booking train, bus tickets you need to provide Nationality, passport details etc. One wonders where all this info goes? Interpol, Langley.
Plaza in front of the Cathedral. The queue in the middle is for the Royal Palace opposite.
Royal Palace is said to have been based on the Versailles Palace as when the Borbon dynasty took over on the 1700's they felt the city was ugly, it needed grace and beauty. It has 3,400 rooms at 135,000 sqm. Usual story there had been a mosque from 880AD until 11th century, then a defensive castle, Alcazar, until it burnt to the ground in 1734.
One can certainly see the French influence in the buildings. Below is the Madrid gardens by the palace and cathedral famous for roses, unfortunately taped off for " reformation".
A stroll around Gran V and the Cuenca area evidences why Madrid is known to be liberal. An area dedicated to all things gay had some very unique shops.
Getting along in those shoes requires a medal.
Not sure why you would tattoo your head and not your legs. Pyjamas the latest look.
This plaza was like Times Square, all huge billboards flogging sun protection.
A vegetarian restaurant we got quite excited, it was packed. But being resourceful Kiwis we had taken Jeff's famous filled baguettes with us. Do start dreaming about anything green as Southern Spanish cuisine, tapas wears after a while.
So back on the bus past typical countryside. The photo below includes a chemical plant in the middle of a cropping plain.
Today is Domingo so very quiet with supermercardos closed, church and buying pastries for Mama. We got some laundry done at a laverteria and were happy to sit at a local cafe for 40mins watching Sunday in Toledo. Had a look at the military museum and decided not to queue at Trebol for lunch. We had dined there previously and enjoyed it. The plastered exterior walls are painted with murals of windows and brickwork.
Tomorrow we take a couple of trains to Cuenca where we had hoped to see the Noheda mosaics but murphys law not open Monday, Tuesday but the town is also known for its hanging houses clinging to the mountain side.
No comments:
Post a Comment